Steep fun, even steeper than the already steep

Director of Humor Affairs

(5.11a).

Climb past the first 2 bolts and crux of

Director of Humor Affairs

and then traverse right on jugs along the lip of a forty-five degree overhang - wild!

Lambada

Farmers Dance

Endangered Species

The Waltz

Pinching Bird Shit

Carapace

Knuckle Bones

The Flying Dragon

Banana Dance

Tortuga

Farmers Market

Gopherus Agassizi

Turtle Soup

Largado

Voodoo Economics

Trey Lizardos

Dancing Fox

The Actual Parchments

Director of Humor Affairs

Really fun jug haul - steep with big holds.

Starts with a steep rightward traverse on good holds to a huge horn.  The crux is right down near the first and second bolts.

Start on farmers market for the first three bolts then link into banana dance for an extra good pump. Cruxy move linking into banana dance.

A generally pretty decent route, probably deserves 2 stars, but maybe not.   The climbing is not very continuous - it is mostly very easy with one hard move between the first and second bolt.

All the same, I found it to be kind of enjoyable and worthwhile.

Starts off with a tough boulder problem through the first 18 feet. After finishing the boulder problem the route eases up a bit but keeps you on your toes with 12a climbing for the next 40 feet.

Like most route at turtle wall this is an excellent route.

A 4-star route with a name like that?  It might be reaching a bit to call it 4-stars, but I do think this is one of the best routes at this crag. I don't get the name - I didn't do any pinches on the route, and definitely didn't encounter any bird droppings.

This is a steep 40 ft route in the cave, overhanging 7 or 8 feet.

Starts out interesting right off the deck, and has a really continuous series of overhanging moves out to the anchors.  Lots of jugs to keep the pump down, but there is a thuggish crux about halfway up.

A tough route with a very gratifying start. The opening sequence is a tendon popping gripfest! Complete this clean and reach SuperStar status.

Carapace

starts out hard on thin crimps and vanishing feet. Pull through on shallow edges to gain a stance on small edges; stay strong and persevere, a rest is on the way. Climb up, leaning left on micro-crimps passing another crux and catch your breath. Pick and choose your final moves to the chains carefully-things aren't always as they appear.

Fun route with a tough move that may be a bit cranker for the rating.   The crux is between the first two bolts with some slopiness in pockets.

The route is pretty much vertical in nature, fun climbing throughout, although the crux is much harder than the rest of the route.

This route is the parchments big brother.  Start with the same two bolts of the Actual Parchments, fighting through strenuous sharp pockets and crimps (V6 or 7) up and left to a hard throw to a jug.  Get a couple of shakes, and launch up and right using a pocket, multiple bumps of some heneous slopers and finger locks, to a big throw to a flat one handed ledge. Swim your way up the last 10 feet with big throws between big jugs to the top.

good, hard climbing.

Big holds and even bigger moves describe this athletic route.

Banana Dance

climbs an ever steepening overhang through jugs and deep edges. Lunge, throw, pull, and pump your way up this one.

Wear your tighty whities or tape accordingly.

The attraction in this route is all in the first 15 feet of climbing.  The route starts in beautiful overhanging huecoes to a powerful crux just after the first bolt.   The crux involves a tricky sidepull throw to the left - a big span.  Then up to a jug and the second clip.

After you clip the second bolt, the angle eases off and the route gets a bit sandy and unremarkable.  But this route is worth doing just for the great climbing up to the second bolt.

Fun jug haul. The crux is staying on once making the transition after the second bolt to the near horizontal roof. Save some juice for the last few clips.

Gopherus Agassizi

is

the

"moderate" test piece at the

Turtle Wall

. Rated as only .10c in the Goss Guide,

Gopherus Agassizi

has stumped the toughest of hardmen. Calling this route sequential would be an understatement.

Gopherus Agassizi

is basically a 30 foot boulder problem with bolts. An extremely thin start leads to a one, maybe two, shallow pockets. Clip the first bolt and tell yourself you can make it to the second. From here, pull out your keys to unlock the crux or maybe just pray for an answer. Finish, or for lack of better words, fight, your way to the close yet distant chains.

An Onsight of this route (low traffic leaves no chalk) is like betting on a horse with no legs.

Unless the entire face of this route fell off since the fa, its more close to a .11 than

Michael Jackson

is to a come back...(too soon?)

This is a short, but sweet, perplexing route on the far right end of the

Turtle Wall

. Hang on tight to the starting moves climbing up a few feet to some comfortable and welcoming huecos. From these huecos climb through crimps (read: you'll have to let go of the undercling) to a committing and intense crux. Break free of this dilemma and stay true to the nail biting slab finish. There are many "m"'s in the word commitment, and this route will add a few more.

A short, steep route that has really positive holds and fun moves. Seems to climb like a boulder problem with bolts. The crux seems to be clipping the second bolt.

A high-quality 5.8 sport climb!  Lots of fun with several nice moves, including a cool opening sequence.  Like many of these climbs, a little sandy at the top.

Not much to look at and mildly uninspiring,

Dancing Fox

is 15 feet of intense climbing requiring lock offs, body tension, and picking good holds from bad. Choke during the crux sequence and the

Dancing Fox

turns into the clumsy hippo. Mimicing many problems at

Moe's Valley

, this route is just a little too tall for a pad. Named after numerous fox sightings, this sly little line is often empty and offers fun, dynamic moves.

Favoring most body types, grade consensus is varied. Either way

The Dancing Fox

remains solid just above and below it's grade. Long hard moves, a steady selection of pockets, and a mid-route impasse are all fine factors on this quick, steep tick.

As with almost every other route on this wall, The Actual Parchments offers an incredibly fun challange over steep sandstone terrain with varied moves, and of course, lots of chances to fall off... This route starts with a sharp and difficult pocket-pulling boulder problem (V4 or 5) past 3 bolts to huge jugs that make this route reasonable.

I stick clipped the second bolt, which mabe a good idea due to the boulder behind you if you fall.

Rest a bit then do the final huge deadpoint to a crimp (redpoint crux V4) and enjoy easy jugs up and left to the top of Director of Humor Affairs. Fun outing on good rock.

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Routes in Turtle Wall