Crazy wandering line that was attempted/abandoned by Larry Shaffer. First pitch takes some hard turns, requiring looong slings. It's thin crux is protected by a bolt, which was Shaffer's highpoint. Reach a perfect belay ledge in the center of the wall. Pitch two is very unique, running parallel to the huge overhanging arete. Gaining each bolt is exciting and thought provoking. Bring a prusik if you take the ride ;) 

  1) 5.12- 90'    Begin on 'Nocturnal Submissions' wide crack. Keep an eye out for a bolt just right of crack at about 40' high. Head straight right on seams into center of headwall. Two bolt belay on 'Ear' ledge. 

  2) 5.11 80'   Follow line of 7 bolts leading diagonally away from ledge. Money pitch. Build anchor at big 'sidewalk' ledge. Rap off of 'Stainless Shield' anchors to the right. (A .5 cam placed in the ledge helps the belayer from getting violently pulled sideways)

Passport to The Sky

A Certain Shade of Green

True to Form

Rain Man

Scary Larry

Biorhythm

The Conn Diagonal Variation

Gun Has No Trigger

Paper Tiger

Living @ 1%

Direct CONNection

I Want Out

Jugs

Nick of Time

Barry McCochiner's Crack

Kretschy-Tails

West Buttress

Conn Diagonal

Iron Lingerie

A magnificently steep stretch of climbing, comparable to Red Fish Blue Fish and The Phoenix in style. Still a rarity in The Needles, but there’s probably more out there. Begin up a moderate dihedral with sparse gear to a rip-able stance and an impressive gold wall looming above. Gymnastic gesticulations, contorting concatenations and some balanced biorhythm will accord your passing on this 40m new age classic. Major props to Chris for the vision. 

Ascends the steep black streak that 'I Want Out' avoids. Starts immediately left of the Conn Diagonal, look for bolt at 15'. Scramble up the slab and find a finger size placement before the second bolt. Make a delicate traverse to a decent rest before firing into the crux. Very thin, techy, and powerful transition getting into the seam. Catch a poor rest in an undercling and get ready for the 6' deadpoint move. If you're not pumped, finish out the delicate and spooky face to the anchors. If the grade holds true, this would be the first 14 in the needles.

New line on Outer Outlet! Put in ground-up without previously top-roping. There is a crux in the beginning and the middle. Exciting, but safe, runouts. Best place to belay is in the perch at the base of the chimney to the right.

Great moderate line right of 'Jugs', well protected with 7 bolts. Yup, 7 bolts... definitely, definitely 7 bolts. Begin on large boulder, slinging the top (48" sling), then stem across the gap to clip first bolt. Manage tricky crux (Uh-Oh!) midway followed by easier pulling to the anchors. Nice casual route with nothing too serious or commiting. I mean, Rain Man did it, and he was a retard.

This intimidating, forgotten line would make a perfect representation of what most people think of the needles; Terrifying. Very little was known about this route so I'm guessing at where the first pitch went exactly but seems like a logical assumption.  

  1) 5.11+ 130'   Begin up the Conn Diagonal and branch off into a black flared seam about halfway up. Gear is finicky but good. Belay at bolted anchor at large horizontal.  

  2) 5.11+R 140'   Traverse further right on ledge to the first bolt. Pull a couple thin moves (crux) to easier but super run-out climbing. Each bolt is near impossible to spot from the previous. Bring slings for horns and micro gear to supplement the 4 bolts in 40m. Refer to the topo to see exactly where this pitch climbs.

This route starts in the chimney to the left of the face that the original route starts on.  Start in the chimney with two variations.  (1) climb up the chimney and through to the south side of the outer outlet.  Turn the corner and climb an offwidth chimney or a chimney with a layback crack in the left wall to get below a chockstone.  Go under the chockstone through a "worm hole" like found on spire 4, but much bigger.  Belay from the ledge 5 meters above the stone. (2)  From the ground, climb up the chimney and head slightly right to gain the top ledges of the chimney on the right.  Belay from here.     Pitch two starts with a Traverse right around the corner (exposure starts) to gain the entire Conn traverse ledge.  This is the crux of the route.  Gain the ledge and "climb" to the two bolt belay that it the top of pitch one of the original route.  Expect some rope drag and one suspect fixed wire on the pitch.  Climb pitch two of the original route as pitch three of the variation.  You can make it to 5 meters below the top of the outer outlet with a 60M rope from the two bolt belay, even climbing the 5.8 hand crack on the right wall of the third pitch of the original route, to make a really good finish!

Begins the same as 'True to Form' then branching off right after the third bolt linking seams to more bolts. Steeper/pumpier crux in the middle on slopey holds. Find the bomber nut before the crux to help keep you off the ramp/chimney.

Next door to the infamous Iron Lingerie is this harder but much less threatening route. Begin as for Iron, then branch right at the second bolt. Finesse through the nasty thin crimps on the 12+ crux to a good rest. Fire the 5.13 crux followed by pumpy climbing and an 11+ crux before reaching the no hands ledge/horn. A final 12- crux and 50 more feet of 5.10+ gets you to the anchor. Originally started by Shaffer, we pushed this much further around 2016/17 but were stopped at a hard boulder problem. Revisiting 4 years later, we re-routed avoiding that crux and took it  to the top.

This route is a real wake-up call. Be ready for some hard moves, and hard gear placements.

This is a very pleasant new line on Outer Outlet that meets up with the Conn Diagonal. A great, long route (42m) with thoughtful yet sufficient gear and exposed climbing.Begin up the left angle. crack system splitting the two black water streaks. Gain a small sloping ledge, clip a bolt, and then pull the crux to gain a large ledge. From here begin placing gear and following a system of seams and cracks up the slab eventually linking up with the Kidney Stone on the 2nd Pitch of the Conn Diagonal. Build a belay here. Continue on with the final 2 pitches of Conn Diagonal. Extend your pieces to reduce rope drag. 

A full value two pitch climb adjacent to the Conn Diagonal. First pitch is mixed, tricky, and exciting! Second is harder with well protected cruxes then more run-out on top.

 1) 5.12 100', mixed, 5 bolts Look for the first bolt just left of the Conn diagonal start. Follow easy slab up to steep black streak. Clip the next four bolts through a techy traversing crux and exit left into a large undercling flake (A Certain Shade of Green continues straight up the black streak.) From the flake, begin placing small gear and work up the balancy overhanging arête. Crack will take you to the anchors with a nice stance.

 2) 5.12+ 90', 8 bolts Figure out the boulder problem to pull the bulge then hang on for sustained crimper climbing! Keep it together for the last half on run-out 5.9+ climbing. Chain anchors.

 First pitch anchors could be reached via easier gear climbing from in between Vertigo and Outer Outlet, if you're looking to only climb the second pitch.

Make sure to place good gear before getting the first bolt. I always take my pink and red tri-cam, but smaller camming units will work just fine.   Notice the nice JUGS (chickenheads and dinnerplates)   This route is a bit runny, and maybe a bit dangerous.    Getting down is easy from the top of Jugs: simply rappel. Getting down from the base of Jugs is a little bit harder. Option one climb down chimney. Option two rappel, anchors are tricky to find but they are there and are located about 20 ft below the base of the route on the opposite side of the chimney. You might have to look around a bit and you can stay on rappel to find them, although dont loss control or you'll take a nasty swing, and keep knots in the ends or your rope. Good luck

This is one of the best .10 crack climbs around. It has all sizes, starts off big and goes to fist, hand, and eventually bitchin finger locks.   Super Route

Climb up through the flakes taking whatever path you choose to the base of the left facing corner. Jam, stem, and lieback up the corner. Face moves will take you through the bulge and into the wider groove with cool finger pods in the back. (good green c3 at the bulge)  Low angled hand crack to the anchor.

An eponym of a local legend and a must tick avant ou apres visit to The Needles renowned Sylvan Chalet happy hour. Begin on the Conn Diagonal flake to reach a dark flake below steep cracks and colorful corner. It’s all fun and enjoyable with smooth cracks and gear to a rude awakening bulge on perfect crystals while you’re staring at the anchor. Similar to a hangover after losing oneself in an evening of various finely crafted Kretschy-tails.A great route, but overshadowed amongst the hall of giants. 

This classic line has a little bit of everything: blue-collar puff-n-grunt crack climbing, delicate face climbing, and great exposure! All three pitches are stellar! 

  P1: (5.8++, 120') Start on top of a large boulder and climb the vertical crack system until it ends at a bolted belay. 

  P2: (5.8, 50') Climb the delicate face past 3 bolts to the horizontal crack and build an anchor. The next pitch starts 15' right, so build your anchor accordingly. 

  P3: (5.8, 130') Climb far right weakness. Make a couple strenuous moves to get established on the upper face and follow  weaknesses to the summit. 

  Renn Fenton contemplated this stunning line for years before he went for it.  He knew he would be alright if he could just get to the face climbing, but was unsure if he could climb the cracks that guard it.  On the FA, no bolts were placed on the second pitch, making it yet another impressive lead in Needles history! Bravo, Renn and Don!

This is one of the most classic 5.7 routes that I have ever done. Hike to the field north of Outer Outlet. The route is actually hard to pick out because it blends into the wall. Look for a crack system that diagonals up the north face. This is the route.

 Start by climbing up through face holds to get into the crack. Climb this for one long pitch until a horizontal crack traverse is seen. Set a belay. Then traverse 60 feet or so to the right on juggy holds. This is very airy, and the face drops below you. Finally for pitch 3, pick a variety of ways to the top. A large roof hangs above. There is a chimney on either side of the roof, the left being easier. Grunt through one of these. Otherwise, a beautiful "lightning bolt" crack heads to the right of the right chimney. This is supposed to be a 5.8 finger crack.

 Descent: You have two options. Either step across to the East summit of outer outlet and find the anchors that sit on the south side of the formation, or once at the top of the final pitch anchors traverse out right to a set of anchors and make two double rope rappels down the route Stainless Steel Shield. 

 This route was first done in 1953 without climbing shoes, a short rope, and both upclimbing and downclimbing it. Very impressive if you ask me.

This route is mostly 5.10+, but the crux 12 ft or so above the bolt is a stiff .12 move, with really runout 5.10+ above. After the crux you have some 5.11 but mostly its really constant 5.10, and super runout.

Outer Outlet is similar in shape and size to the Inner Outlet, but is located further from Sylvan Lake.  It is quite steep on all sides, and there is no easy routes to the summit.  Vertigo is a steep detached spire that looms to the east, and Rhinoceros Rock is a slabby rock to the west.   

  Some fine cracks are on this rock.  The historic Conn Diagonal is on the north face, and is a very clever way to the top.  Nick of Time is on the South Face, and is a beautiful curving hand/fist crack that works its way to the summit. 

  Descend by finding a two-bolt rap anchor going over the South Face (near Jugs).  Two ropes are recommended, but I believe that it is possible to get off with two 1-rope rappels.

Description

Protection

Routes in Outer Outlet