The dihedral 40' off the ground.

Difficult boulder problems followed by rests, leads to sustained stemming and back stepping, followed by a pumpy arete.

First Blood

Evil Sede

Chuffed As F*ck (extension to Well Chuffed)

Silverback Arete

Well Chuffed

Grandpa Joe’s Direct

Wilde

Sixty Forty

The Higher Truth

The Truth

The Donkey Way

The warm-up and/or approach pitch. A few big moves and mantles between ledges. Probably wet.

Powerful moves, bad feet and high steps define this route. Two distinct cruxes, the hardest one is in the middle but a second crux guards the chains.

Good rests at bolts. Very beta intensive.

A really cool extension to an already unique climb.

From the large ledge after the V5 Crux of Well Chuffed, continue up for 7 more bolts up the double arete.

The crux of this extension lies within the first 3 bolts, and is a V7 boulder problem followed by easier 5.11 to the top.

Thin, balancy, and powerful arete.

Shares top anchor with First Blood.

Fun route, starts on the 3 bolt start to Joe's Garage.

Clip these bolts, 1 or 2 pieces gets you to the top of the block.

From here head up 10 or so more bolts to the anchor on the big ledge (end of Joe's 1st pitch).

Climbing is mostly 11- until 3rd to last bolt.

A V5 Boulder problem to a huge rest, then 12a for the last 2 bolts finishes up this fun juggy route.

80m rope necessary to lower off.

Start this route with a 3 bolt variation (11b) which continues up and left into a large flake and to a large pedestal (stance). This variation adds 40 feet of high quality face climbing. Alternatively, there is a 3rd class scramble around the corner to the left.

From the pedestal above the flake, place high gear (nuts and blue alien size) and punch it up to good finger locks (5.11) in a 50 foot splitter finger crack (mostly .4 and .5 Camalot).

Either stop at the anchor or continue past a bolt and through a small roof (11+) and up a crack to another bolted belay.

80m rope required to lower off.

From the same bolted belay for The Truth, head up and right to a bolt. From here follow the right leaning, steep crack to a wide pod section. Either lieback, or offwidth this crux part, and pull the lip. From here, a good rest leads to beautiful 11- fingers and face climbing to the same anchor as for The Truth.

Beautiful! 30' of 5.11 fingers leads to some thin, bolted face climbing (crux). Clip more bolts up and left onto a gorgeous blunt arete,  then steep stemming to an anchor at 100'.

An incredible pitch!

The pitch starts with 20 meters of laybacking and jamming up a 5.10 corner. At about halfway up the pitch, the climbing abruptly becomes much harder with bolts the rest of the way. Clip the first bolt, and pull off the 1st crux; gastons and a series of cross-through underclings.

Take advantage of the calf pumper rest before the steep climbing.

Pull off the next crux through the bulge via barn-door liebacks and big throws to get established on the headwall.

Climb jugs and liebacks up the 92° headwall to a series of slopers, and a pump crux right before the anchor.

Clip the chains as you stand atop the wall!

An 80m rope will lower you back to the belay.

An amazing pitch! Technical face and thin crack climbing leads to a sustained lieback and stemming dihedral.

Crux is thin liebacking with high feet at 75'.

Glory crack jugs to the top.

One of the best of it's grade.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in The Sugar Cookie