Short powerful movement through the roof at the base of Darcy's Wall. Toproped first,.. the led with a piton for protection.

Zschiesche's Roof

30 Second Crack

Ship's Prow

Darcy's Wall

The Grand Traverse

Death Leap 2000

Last Gasp

Darkness At Noon

Zig-Zag

Cemetery Wall

Unamed 5.9

Strawberry Fields

Easy Overhang

Starts about 5ft right of corner (Last Gasp) angle up and left under overhang to corner, then up a few of moves, till you can move right to a big hold, do a thin move to set for the leap to big hold on corner Last Gasp, or more fun avoid the corner, for some fun 5.11 face climbing to the top,

Climb the crack in the corner to the left of Ship's Prow.  No surprises here, plenty of protection and straight forward moves.

Climb the corner just to the left of Cemetery Wall. If you miss some key holds or cannot reach them, this route will feel a bit harder than its rating.  The crux for me was getting past the roof.  This route like Cemetery Wall is short but fun.

A mega classic by any standard. Start slightly left of the corner and climb up a series of ramping edges towards the middle of the face. The crux is the last 2 moves.

While not nearly as grand of a traverse as its namesake in the Tetons, the Devil's Lake version of the Grand Traverse offers an interesting alternate start to Last Gasp. Instead of starting in the pit below Last Gasp, start on the good holds around the corner to the right, where the vertical wall meets the roof of Zschiesche's Roof. Traverse up and left to the corner, and finish on the upper section of Last Gasp.

Last Gasp is an aesthetically pleasing line up an obtuse outside corner just left of Darcy's Wall.   

  The true ascent line starts just left of the corner in a depression which in days of yore was called the "Snake Pit."  One can start more easily even farther left behind a standing block and traverse back to the corner on a ledge, however this is considered an anathema and doesn't make the ascent that much easier anyway.  

  Continue more or less straight up, or a little left of, the corner to the top.  Unless you are a real hardman you will know at the top why it is called "Last Gasp."

One of the most sustained squeeze chimneys to be had at Devils Lake.  Move up the chimney without getting stuck until you reach some chockstones, do an exposed move out and around the chockstones, and top out.

Between the boulder and the wall, do a move up to the big horizontal ledge.  "Zig-Zag" continues more or less up the crack in front of you (while "Easy Overhang" traverses right and up the other crack).  The crux is the first few moves off the ledge.  Zig left up into the alcove, then zag right back into the crack. 

  Until 2007 or so there was a large basswood tree (see the photos of "Easy Overhang") that pressed you against the rock at the crux, and provided a convenient point of protection as well.  Now that the tree is gone, this route has a much different feel at the crux.... 

  Feels similar to the move left on "The Rack" to me, so I've called it a 5.7 instead of the traditional 5.5.

Short climb but fun and challenging for the grade.  Basically climb the center of the face.  The crux for me was getting on to the ledge where the climber's hand is in the photo.  Too short to warrant more stars.

# 22 in Sven's. Climb corner left of Zig-Zag (route 21) to roof. Continue over roof to top.

This is a short but fun climb.  Start between Easy Overhang and Zig-Zag and climb straight up to the ledge in front of the bulge.  From here climb over the thin bulged face.  To keep on route try to avoid going right to the easy overhang crack or left to the crack of zig-zag, you'll figure it out.  Make your way over the overhang (really fun part) to easy ground straight up to top.

As the name implies, Easy Overhang is a straight forward climb up monster, positive holds.  However, those lacking upper body strength may need some artful footwork just below the overhang.  Start behind the large block left of Last Gasp and go up to a ledge.  Follow the crack on the right up to and over the roof. 

  In the photo below, the overhang is near the very bottom at the left.  Last Gasp on the corner to the right.

D'Arcy's Buttress is a shorter wall (maybe 40 feet high) that sees a lot of climbing due the interesting routes and easy access.  Notable climbs here include the easily spotted Ship's Prow (5.6), the dyno-move route Death Leap 2000 (5.10b), and Sometime Crack (5.10a).  There are also some bouldering routes on the north side of D'Arcy's Buttress.  You are likely to find D'Arcy's Buttress full by 9:30 on any summer weekend.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in 04: D'Arcy's Buttress