this nice flake provides a good warm-up for the gorgeous 5.11 corners in this neck of the woods.

begin with easy climbing up some chinle to the base of a left facing dihedral.  the dihedral starts fingers and quickly goes to thin hands for a short section.  then comes a low angled left facing, right leaning flake on glorious hands for about 70 feet to anchors on the left wall.

scout was kind of an accidental FA.  the bloom book shows an unnamed 5.9 flake to the left of unnamed #38.  we figured the book was wrong and that the 5.9 flake was to the right of unnamed #38.  the book is still wrong (there is no 5.9 flake to the left of unnamed #38).  but, we were too....

anway, i was getting impatient and told my old lady to head up that there crack.  she asked if i saw any anchors up there.  i thought i saw something that might be a bolt up there.  the route was only supposed to be 75' tall.  after climbing a while she asked how much rope was out.  i yelled out that there was a ton of rope, and then looked down and saw the halfway mark just below my belay hand.  this worked out pretty well, as the crack turned into a pile of dirt and whithered away just in time to not need to horse around with a 2nd rope.

scout

Hydraulic Pump

Salt-Lake Special

Minute Lube

Transmission Trouble

Lift Kit

Unnamed 5.10- w/ LF corner capped by roof

Crankcase

4x20

Unnamed 5.11 (36) - RF corner through 2 roofs

Take 5

Long Bandito route - hands into wide corner

Town

Unnamed 5.10 (route 34) - R of tunnel

Lift Kit (Right Side of Crag)

Linkage

4 x 4

Unnamed 5.11 w/ 2 bolt start

Variety Pack

Unnamed 5.11 (38) - twin crack start

Unknown   21 - aka 'every bit of awkward'

Marshmallow Safari

Road Rage

Hammer Down

Monster Truck

"Unnamed 5.11+" in Bloom Guide

Dashboard Jesus

Country

Collision Course

Carbondale Short Bus

Unknown 5.12 Large Lichen Corner

Take 10

Hookers 'n Blow

Unnamed 5.10 RF flake just R of knobby tires

Knobby Tires

This route has two starts, the left one is a sweet fingers to off fingers splitter which is what we did.  The right one we didn't do but it looked like it starts out as .4 Camalots in a corner and then gets bigger.

Both cracks start by gently climbing up some flaky rock that is easy to climb but poor in quality.  The left crack starts with .3 fingers to a stance on a sketchy looking flake/tooth thing.  It looks like it should fall out but it was solid enough to stand on, I wouldn't recommend pulling on it or standing on the far left end of it though.  Continue up .5 and .75 fingers with nice pods for your toes until you get to a small ledge.  Step right on the ledge to the corner and cruise up hands and thin hands to the anchor.

This is the first route right of 4x4.  The left of the duo of twin splitters up offsets (the right being Crankcase).

The crux is the first changing corners and is pretty burly, above this it's just a matter of hanging on...

Powerful and sequential finger crack with 3 sections of business. Fun boulder problem start to a loose block of a ledge. Locker fingers up a gentle overhang with no feet into a sequence to gain a marginal hand jam. Tricky moves up into a pod- rest. Power layback and jam moves until you can bust out left to a great sidepull and work crap feet and ok locks with the right hand- to a final perfect finger lock. Clipping the chains may be the crux as the crack pinches to offset nothingness for a distance before opening to one final fingerlock next to the anchor. Saucy!

Rt facing corner on rt side of main wall. Cruxy, thin start to sustained wide fingers/thin hands. Unique stone on this one. A little lichen, but a great route!

Steep ringlocks to tight hands. Lay back to a rest and go for it just like hot Carl did on the way rad first ascension. He drilled the bolts and everything like a real old school climber with socks on.

This is route #41in Karl Kelly's Creek Freak book. It is listed as Unknown with no details about the FA. A comment on the route "Long Bandito Corner" by "Elk Heart" has given this route its name on Mountain Project. This is not to be confused with the route around the corner.

Start in some relatively soft rock to gain a finger crack. Follow the fingers, off fingers, and tight hands to an arete. Pull around the arete into some broken rock in a left facing corner. Follow the broken rock to a big hands roof. Muscle though and reach the anchors.

Climb an initial easy section, protected by a .75 Camalot to a ledge below the left-facing corner capped by a roof. Climb good hands in a corner to a pod. Above the crack stays wide but good face features keep it sane before reaching the roof.Climb the roof to the right with big face holds for the feet. Above the roof is an initial section of thin-hand jams before reaching good hand jams before the anchor.

A thin move gains a sustained offset finger crack.  A burly move or two in a changing corner leads to slightly easier ground in a right-facing corner.  At the base of a bolted offwidth, a no hands rest appears to allow you to catch your breath.  Four bolts up the "monster offwidth" size crack lead to fun stemming moves out a small rest.  Finish with pumpy thin hands in a right-facing corner.

climb a flaring slot and place some tiny gear at the top. bust some wild face moves to a stance at the base of the gong flake. climb the flake and clip a bolt out left. now thrutch into the off width crack and finish with tight fingers through a roof to the chains.

This route is marked by a right facing corner that goes through two large roofs.  Start with slightly chossy but easy rock to a nice set of parallel thin finger cracks, one in a right facing corner and the other on the face with white calcite.  The cracks gradually open up and get easier until you get to the first roof.  Once you have pulled the roof make sure to place a piece out left or your rope will get stuck in the crack below for sure!  Continue up through the more difficult second roof and traverse right to the anchors.  A great route, get on it!  Save some finger size pieces for the top.

This is a fun finger crack just left of 4X4.  It starts with good feet, ledges and then embarks on a wonderful lie back to number one BD's.  the crux is leaving the last good foot and working the lie back.

#2 in old Bloom, #5 in new Bloom. This is a long route with variety. It begins in the tight hands crack just outside and to the right of the inside of the dihedral. Climb though good hands with many opportunities to stem left. After good hands it gets wide for brief section and pops you into clean cupped hands in white rock which widen ever so slightly to the top. The color change serves as a nice half-way mark if you're a little pumped. This is a long route and requires more than you can get out of a 70m. Take a couple ropes and a rest in the middle.

(per Steven Lucarelli's submittal, May 27 2014):

"This route starts to the right of the main corner up a left angling finger crack with feet. Continue up a hand crack on the left where the corner and starting crack meet, followed by a short section of fingers and offwidth. After the wide crack its pretty much hands to the anchor."

On the north (far right) side of the 4x4 wall, and around the corner, lies this route clustered next to other crack lines.

Order: An unnamed 5.10, then Variety Pack, then this right facing dihedral, and finally to the right a popular offset hand splitter that shares anchors with this route.

The dihedral starts shallow and moves pasts a pod into a larger corner.  A reach right gains the hand crack to arrive at the anchor for the hand splitter on the right.

The route could go on.  Possibly bring a drill kit and continue on!

Apparently, Town and Country are the two routes that share anchors here.

Town left, and Country right, the latter being the easier of the two.

This route starts in a right facing corner with a finger crack in the back of a shallow chimney.  Stem around the chimney to a stance and continue up some loose rock to a nice .75 to 3 Camalot crack.  The crux is near the top getting out of a large flaring pod and through a #3 Camalot roof.

(editor's note: Clarified that this is the Lift Kit on the right side of 4x4.  There is another Lift Kit on the left side.)

Starts with face climbing over 3 bolts, continue up a right-facing corner that starts with off-fingers and goes through the sizes up to steep cupped hands.

The crux is reading the route.  It has an inobvious offwidth to it that requires a #5 camelot.  It was sandy when I did it and there was a large detached flake half the size of a car door that could fall off- dont be discouraged this was an engaging route with cool stemming, offwidth etc

When parking just before the cattle guard and approaching up the main trail, this route is visible as a big hands crack in a slot with a triangular roof just before a set of anchors.  From the top of the trail navigate a 100 yards or so right (or north) to the base of the route.

The climb is straight forward plugging and chugging until the roof where the size changes to about 4 inches.  After turning the roof (crux), the anchors are just above.  Possible second pitch continues on, although I am not sure if it has been done or not.  Looks like it goes.

I don't know what the guidebooks are calling the grade of this route these days.  Difficulty when pulling the roof on this climb is subject to hand size (as always at Indian Creek), so you could find this to be 10+ or solid 11.

This climb is located climber's right along the cliff from the Crankcase/Monster Truck area, but well before the Northwest prow area.  It starts right off the trail at a short uphill section of pebbly scree, and is easily identifiable as the only climb that starts with 2 bolts.

Two bolts protect bouldery moves to a stance where you can place a #3 or slightly larger sized camalot.  The rest of the climb is quality thin hands climbing, split by a good rest after a small easy roof.

You rack should include at least:

- 1-2 x purple camalot or similar size

- 2-3 x green camalots

- 2 x black metolius or #2 friend

- 3-5 red camalots (or substitute by working in a green metolius or gold camalot when possible)

- this is just a very rough suggestion!

A single 70m rope gets you back down, but not a 60m.  Guide is incorrect regarding route length.

Superb and sustained fingers in a corner, broken with some pods, face features and some rests. The crux is in the initial section. Above, good faceholds take some of the "bite" out of it. This thing is long and well worth the trip.

Most of this route is big hands in a flare but the bottom and top are guarded by some funky wideness.  If you can get a fist above the starting squeeze this route is about mid 5.10, if not then it might be a little harder.

This is a striking line on the left side of 4x4 as you're trudging up the approach trail.  Located in a lighter colored rock than most of the dark sandstone around it, it is a straight up splitter in a left facing dihedral.  It has a sandy short beginning with a great #1 camalot placement at the beginning of the crack.  It then goes to great hands (#2 camalots) and gets progressively wider to a sandy sloping ledge just below the anchors

Start atop the large block the trail tunnels under. Have the belayer in the cave below.

Traverse left to a bolt that protects entry moves to the honeycomb face and crack. Wiggle up the squeeze, then giggle out a roof to the glory 3's crack.

Fun and varied climb with an adventurous flair. Initial crack is a bit sandy, but the face features are novel and suprisingly solid. The top crack is what dreams are made of.

Navigate a chossy, chunky, Chinle start to reach a crack in the Wingate. It starts as a finger crack in a flake and turns into a handcrack in a left-facing corner.

A slightly chossy, but easy first few feet gain a gorgeous 4-camalot crack in a left-facing corner.  Jam or layback up this OW to the obvious "ear" feature and layback out the flake to a rest.  A few awkward moves of flared OW lead back into the corner, which is now tight 4.5 camalots...just small enough not to let your knee in.  At the top, traverse to the Crankcase anchors via a balancy foot traverse.

This is a very fun and varied line with a scary start. Boulder up the fractured face and corner placing good gear. Place a piece (green Alien fits best) in a hollow flake just before busting out hard moves (with some sand) to the ledge above...A fall here could be grim! I'm not so sure about the integrity of the hollow flake.

Head up the slot and jam the fun, wavy (mostly #2 Camalot and some #1's) flake/crack. Enter the relatively easy (and protectable) squeeze chimney (#2 - #.5 Camalots). Pull through the small roof on good jams (#1 Camalots). Finish the climb through a thinning corner switch on mostly #.75 to slightly tighter jams and then an anchor. Killer!!

This pitch is the 2nd pitch above the route Country. THe true 1st pitch of country is hardly done, we thought it was an FA but there are anchors is you follow the natural line above the 50 foot anchor on country, keep going up through off width stemming corner to where the #4 size crack angles sharp right. The 1st 2 bolt anchor is here.

Above this is Dashboard Jesus, a beautiful varnished splitter to right facing dihedral. This is a stunning line that gives you everything from offwidth pods to tight fingers at the top. The 2nd pitch we think is about 130 feet, but may go with a 70 to the country anchor. Bring a tag line to be sure though.

On the north wall.  Hike right around the corner to where a few routes are clustered next to each other.  This is probably the best warm up for most people.  The crack is offset, splitter and leans left for the first 2/3 of the route.  Primarily hands and thin hands takes you to the anchor.

Apparently, Town and Country are the two routes that share anchors here.

Town left, and Country right, the latter being the easier of the two.

Climb an initial section of wide crack from #3 to #4 Camalot in size. Step left when possible to climb an easy crack in the corner underneath the roof. At the roof, go right, pulling through the first roof via a layback and then pulling through a second roof just above. Finish with good jams before a "surprise" wide section at the top. If you want to protect the wide section at the top, bring a big piece (#6 Camalot ?) or run it out until you can reach around left to place a piece in the left crack before manteling to the anchors. A good, varied climb, especially if you don't mind doing a little bit of wide climbing.

A wild line with varied movement and thin gear.

The route is much easier the taller you are, the grade is very height dependent.

I TR the route before going for it on the sharp end.

The gear is good but there are some run-outs on Purple and Grey C3 size pieces.

Fun Movement, and don't be afraid of it, not as intimidating as you would think

probably an aid route. Start with a v2-3 boulder problem off ground into nice fingers opening to perfect hands for awhile. Tapers back down to yellow TCU at a small roof. Good rest then 20 more feet of LONG Lieback lock offs in a blue alien seam with perfect locker pod every 3 feet. Lieback corner change to clip anchor.

Right of Take 5 easy crack to some ledge on the right. Now left somehow tricky into some widening, and much worse OW out of it.

Superb thin-hands and hands climbing in a right-facing corner on great rock. A pod up high, shortly before the anchor is the greatest difficulty for most. Great face features throughout this climb offer ample rests and a break for the feet.

[editors note: there were 2 entries for the same route.  i kept the older entry and have included the second entry with these notes.]

per Devin Fin 'mostly hands lil wide at the top but not hard, 10a'

This unnamed route is on the north facing wall if you continue right around the corner.  Shortly after turning the corner, this line begins off a ledge to the left of Variety Pack, and gradually steepens to a short wide section and a 3" finish.

Sometime in the last 5 or 6 years a plaque may have been added. (

See Hookers N Blow

)

As of Mar 28, 2015, the photo on the site here is NOT the route I intended to describe.

In June we found morning shade here.  Good warmup route and probably a somewhat mellow 5.10 for seasoned sandstone crack climbers.

I did not climb this, but it is in the book and is missing on this page.  Looks like a fun climb with some back stepping opportunities.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in 4X4