Nice enough moves, but short. 

  Up the gully/crack from bottom to top. 

  name? quote from 1972 book, seminal for the "new journalism".  

warning: The rock on and around this route has not been climbed much yet, and much of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber - (and if possible, behind a large tree). 

  . . . (Lots of vegetation on this rock as of 2016. Be prepared when climbing to navigate around protruding trees and branches, and dealing with holds slippery with grass, lichen, moss, dirt).

Too Weird to Live, and

Madness in Any Direction

the Sampo

Not Eternal

Warn’t no home like a Raft

Cartwheel through a Mosque

Masters of the Universe

Left Bracket

Allowed she would Sivilize me

All Right then, I’ll go to Hell

Väinämöinen

Opened my Mouth, Almost

Maybe it Meant something

Cross Bronx wrong exit

Further Bus

Too Rare to Die

Lemon Tart

Nice enough moves, but short. 

  Up the face below right from the tree (not using holds in the on the ridge to the left of the gully/crack to the right) to a ledge. Step left below the tree and finish up left side of tree (perhaps more interesting and more overhanging a bit more left). 

  name? quote from 1972 book, seminal for the "new journalism". 

warning: The rock on and around this route has not been climbed much yet, and much of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber - (and if possible, behind a large tree). 

  . . . (Lots of vegetation on this rock as of 2016. Be prepared when climbing to navigate around protruding trees and branches, and dealing with holds slippery with grass, lichen, moss, dirt).

Challenging moves which are not necessarily fun. Good choice if want to work on mantle technique (or crimps on horizontal edges). 

  Up to left side of rock protruding from obvious horizontal break. Get foot up onto protrusion, then over the bulge, using the arete on its right side.   . . . (Harder if do not use arete, easier if touch foot into gully on right side of arete).   Next a mantle onto a slopy ledge, which likely will feel awkward the first time.   . . . (but on top-rope could repeat it, get more toward "elegant"). 

  name? From the Kalevala of Finland. 

warning: The rock on and around this route has not been climbed much yet, and much of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber - (and if possible, behind a large tree). 

  . . . (Lots of vegetation on this rock as of 2016. Be prepared when climbing to navigate around protruding trees and branches, and dealing with holds slippery with grass, lichen, moss, dirt).

Thoughtful moves all the way. 

  Start trending right on right side of crack, then up to meet the crack at the bulge, and up the crack to its top.   Variation: perhaps a bit easier to step right just before the bulge. 

  name? From the Kool-Aid book about the merry pranksters: "Art is not eternal".  

warning: The rock on and around this route has not been climbed much yet, and much of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber - (and if possible, behind a large tree). 

  . . . (Lots of vegetation on this rock as of 2016. Be prepared when climbing to navigate around protruding trees and branches, and dealing with holds slippery with grass, lichen, moss, dirt).

Fun moves all the way (once you know where the good holds and positions are). 

  Up the wide crack to the top. 

  name? a quote from the 13-year-old boy narrator "drifting down the big, still river" together with a runaway slave -- in the first half of the American "good book" which showed the way for many others on the Great Books list. 

warning: The rock on and around this route has not been climbed much yet, and much of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber - (and if possible, behind a large tree). 

  . . . (Lots of vegetation on this rock as of 2016. Be prepared when climbing to navigate around protruding trees and branches, and dealing with holds slippery with grass, lichen, moss, dirt).

Some thoughtful moves, nice enough. 

  Up left side of diagonal right-trending crack. Pass on left side of tree, then roughly straight up staying well left from the vague gully in the center of the slab. 

  name? quote from American immigrants story with scarf (2006). 

warning: The rock on and around this route has not been climbed much yet, and much of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber - (and if possible, behind a large tree). 

  . . . (Lots of vegetation on this rock as of 2016. Be prepared when climbing to navigate around protruding trees and branches, and dealing with holds slippery with grass, lichen, moss, dirt).

Interesting moves. 

  Up to the right side of the vertical ridge, and up right side of nose to top. 

  Variation - recommended: When reach the overhang near the top, instead of continuing up the crack on its left side, step right across and up its right side. 

warning: The rock on and around this route has not been climbed much yet, and much of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber - (and if possible, behind a large tree). 

  . . . (Lots of vegetation on this rock as of 2016. Be prepared when climbing to navigate around protruding trees and branches, and dealing with holds slippery with grass, lichen, moss, dirt).

Some thoughtful moves, but short.   Still has dirt and vegetation on it (as of 2017). 

  Scramble up the vague wide gully, perhaps at first  on its left, then cross over to right. 

warning: The rock on and around this route has not been climbed much yet, and much of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber - (and if possible, behind a large tree). 

  . . . (Lots of vegetation on this rock as of 2016. Be prepared when climbing to navigate around protruding trees and branches, and dealing with holds slippery with grass, lichen, moss, dirt).

Thoughtful interesting moves. 

  Up the face and finish straight up overhang to Left side of wide crack.   Start variation (harder): Start on the small Left-facing inside corner about 2-3 feet left of the wide crack. 

  name? a quote from the 13-year-old boy narrator early (before he escaped) - in the American "good book" which showed the way for many others on the Great Books list. 

warning: The rock on and around this route has not been climbed much yet, and much of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber - (and if possible, behind a large tree). 

  . . . (Lots of vegetation on this rock as of 2016. Be prepared when climbing to navigate around protruding trees and branches, and dealing with holds slippery with grass, lichen, moss, dirt).

Worthwhile moves, but one segment in lower middle is significantly harder than the rest. 

  Up along the vague low ridge, then straight up overhang about 3 feet right of crack. 

  name? a quote from the 13-year-old boy narrator, in the second half of the American "good book" which showed the way for many others on the Great Books list.  

warning: The rock on and around this route has not been climbed much yet, and much of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber - (and if possible, behind a large tree). 

  . . . (Lots of vegetation on this rock as of 2016. Be prepared when climbing to navigate around protruding trees and branches, and dealing with holds slippery with grass, lichen, moss, dirt).

Thoughtful moves the whole way, with a strenuous sequence in upper half. Sustained overhanging. If only this were longer. 

  Up left side of crack. Step R at horizontal​ break. Next diagonal up Left a bit, then up to top. 

  name? From the Kalevala of Finland. 

warning: The rock on and around this route has not been climbed much yet, and much of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber - (and if possible, behind a large tree). 

  . . . (Lots of vegetation on this rock as of 2016. Be prepared when climbing to navigate around protruding trees and branches, and dealing with holds slippery with grass, lichen, moss, dirt).

Nice enough moves, but short. 

  Up the vague gully from bottom to top and finish to a rock above by a bare tree. 

  name? quote from 2003 story of immigant to America with betrayal in old country. 

warning: The rock on and around this route has not been climbed much yet, and much of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber - (and if possible, behind a large tree). 

  . . . (Lots of vegetation on this rock as of 2016. Be prepared when climbing to navigate around protruding trees and branches, and dealing with holds slippery with grass, lichen, moss, dirt).

Face climbing, including some small holds abrasive on fingertips. 

  Directly up to the ridge (perhaps starting a foot or two right) - (without using easier holds leading up to the vague gully in center of slab).   . . . Variation 1: Start 6-8 feet to right and diagonal left (on bigger holds) to reach ridge, then up the ridge: Fun and not more than 5.7 until reach the bulge (can try it on TR even if don't expect to get past bulge). 

  Next directly up the ridge (finding side-pulls to left and right).   . . . Variation 2: Step left before reaching the bulge, then straight up - (a bit less difficult, if find the best footholds). 

  Next directly over the bulge, and directly up (perhaps trending slightly left) to reach the ledge above.   . . . Variation 3: Easier to get onto the ledge from more to the right. 

  Finally easy to reach the rock by the bare tree. 

  name? quote from 1972 book, seminal for the "new journalism". 

warning: The rock on and around this route has not been climbed much yet, and much of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber - (and if possible, behind a large tree). 

  . . . (Lots of vegetation on this rock as of 2016. Be prepared when climbing to navigate around protruding trees and branches, and dealing with holds slippery with grass, lichen, moss, dirt).

Thoughtful "outdoor" moves. 

  Up the wide crack. When reach the overhang near the top, instead of continuing up the crack on its left side, step right across and up its right side.   Variation - easier: Finish directly up the crack. 

warning: The rock on and around this route has not been climbed much yet, and much of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber - (and if possible, behind a large tree). 

  . . . (Lots of vegetation on this rock as of 2016. Be prepared when climbing to navigate around protruding trees and branches, and dealing with holds slippery with grass, lichen, moss, dirt).

Thoughtful interesting moves -- part of the difficulty is finding the key holds. 

  Start a bit right of the tree using a wide groove, then trend to the left side of tree and up. 

  name? The merry pranksters in the Kool-Aid book used a colorful bus. 

warning: The rock on and around this route has not been climbed much yet, and much of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber - (and if possible, behind a large tree). 

  . . . (Lots of vegetation on this rock as of 2016. Be prepared when climbing to navigate around protruding trees and branches, and dealing with holds slippery with grass, lichen, moss, dirt).

A couple of moves much more difficult than the rest. 

  Up the face to a ledge, then roughly straight up, staying to the right of the gully/crack.  

  name? quote from 1972 book, seminal for the "new journalism".  

warning: The rock on and around this route has not been climbed much yet, and much of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber - (and if possible, behind a large tree). 

  . . . (Lots of vegetation on this rock as of 2016. Be prepared when climbing to navigate around protruding trees and branches, and dealing with holds slippery with grass, lichen, moss, dirt).

Sustained thoughtful sequence especially lower middle. 

  Up the face to the high gully. 

warning: The rock on and around this route has not been climbed much yet, and much of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber - (and if possible, behind a large tree). 

  . . . (Lots of vegetation on this rock as of 2016. Be prepared when climbing to navigate around protruding trees and branches, and dealing with holds slippery with grass, lichen, moss, dirt).

Roughly vertical wall about 20-30 ft high its main sections, taller on its lower left side, shorter on its higher right. 

  Above left (WNW) from The Good Book sector. Above from The Shelves sector.   Faces mainly SSW. 

Top Rope access: Simple (but not short) way to reach top of this wall is to hike uphill Right (ENE) on wide ledge until just past the top of "Call Me Ishmael" and "Harpoon Me" route of The Good Book. Then turn sharp Left and walk along the top roughly W for a ways. 

  For climbs near the left end, for climbers with sufficient skill, it might be quicker to (carefully) climb up the route "Left Bracket". 

names of routes: The names follow the approach of the names near the adjacent left end of The Good Book wall, which come from the great American novel, Moby Dick, by Herman Melville. So the idea is to use actions or characters or quotes from a significant American book, but without actually giving the title or author - (except two of the names are from a great book of Finland bacause the first ascender of those routes was visiting from Finland). Usually you can find the name of the book by doing a web search on the route name, perhaps together with a hint from the Description of the route. 

warning: The rock around this sector has not been climbed much yet, and much of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber. 

  . . . (Lots of vegetation on this rock as of 2016. Be prepared when climbing to navigate around protruding trees and branches, and dealing with holds slippery with grass, lichen, moss, dirt).

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in 5.2 Top Shelf