This is the area warm-up. It is steep and juggy down low, thin and technical midway, and has a spooky undercling crux at the very end.

Per

Jared Nelson

: the anchors are a long reach for those that are shorter (under 5'10").

Choss Master

Bang and Blame

Wormhole

Proper Grammar

Big Bang

Big Fat Weiners

Unknown (.13-)

Boom Styxs

Less Choss More Curt

Liquid Charcoal

She Bangs

Blackhole

Pumping Jesus

It was easier, until I broke off a solid hold. Now the bottom section of the route, the overhung part, is pretty damn aggressive.

Sit start down low to the left on 2 good crimps.

Pull up and go to a couple of hard sidepull moves and then to some solid juggy holds.

Go right again and into the blob...to an undercling and you're out.

This is the second line of bolts from the LEFT side of the crag. A long draw is advised for the second clip due to a sharp edge. Terrific climbing!

This route is marked purple in the picture.

Sit start low in the cave, right next to a little, black boulder, on a flake that looks unstable but is tough as iron. (I've been starting with my right hand on the flake and my left on a sloper right next to the hold.)

Pull up and lock off hard with your right hand and move out to an awesome incut crimp, bump up and left to a better crimp. Throw a drop knee and shoot up into the crack above, a very low percentage move.

Continue to follow the the crack/seam up and right to the topout.

This route is an easier version of

Blackhole

....

Still it is a really fun problem.

Start the same as Bang and Blame - pulling up onto some very solid granite slopers. Bouldery through this section, up to the second bolt. The move after the second bolt is technical and wears you down. But stick it, and its a jug haul up to the 4th bolt, where you have a very good rest - time to recover from the lower bouldery section... traverse right and into the first crux

after sometime working through the crux section (the 5th, 6th, and half way to the 7th bolt) found enough solid holds that didnt scare me while holding on. At first i was skeptical about the legitimacy of this line but after working the crux section (and scouring the rockface for solid holds that didnt just break sending me rocketing 10 feet backwards off the wall) find that it holds true. In all actuality, its a very good line.

More traffic is needed though - and when the line has been beaten down enough to the point that only the good solid holds remain - it will be a grade level harder possibly. (key word - possibly)

I will say I took a 25 ft.er pulling slack to clip the long reach to the 6th bolt (which I immediately fixed, having installed a longer draw to help with this problem). If I had to say there is a single crux move - it would be going from an undercling to horrible "knobs" and sloping quarter pad crimps, with an excruciating lock off/cross through move to a "thank jesus" (sidepull jug) hold. My suggestion is that when your in the undercling - exert a little extra energy to pull up and clip that long draw before working the next sequence. You tube worthy falls if you don't - believe that.

Either way - very technical. Every hold you grab requires you to reset your feet, meaning you spend a longer time on those shitty holds - pumping yourself out - trying your hardest to keep you feet on, because if they peel your taking a fall.

(more on the sexond crux to come)

It looks like kind of a sketchy lead. Don't fall above the ledge 3/4 of the way up.

Per

Jared Nelson

: this route climbs steadily up some easy climbing, and goes from the ground up right and then back left to the first clip (the first clip is about 15 feet off the ground, FYI, but it's sustained 5.6 climbing). From there, work your way up to a ledge with a large, juggy shelf, and clip in the third bolt. From there, it is easy climbing until the crux which is 3/4 up, which will warrant the 12a grade.

Climb about 15 feet to the start of the "actual" route. Shake out your hands and start climbing! It has awesome, technical climbing up to a definitive crux off a gnarly sloper out to a pretty good jug (if you can get there). Then it's a burl fest from there.... A big deadpoint throws pull you around the lip.

Start on 2 incut edges pull up and to the left to a sloper sidepull. Set up and go right to an intermediate pinch, then up with your right hand to a good crimp.

Go out left to a possible mantle on a crazy featured, mondo sloper then up with your left to a crimp. Figure out how to go up again and grab a good crimp that has been reinforced with some type of glue (?) and make a couple more big throws before you finish the crux section and move on through to the easier part. If you can get this far, the last 20-30 ft. is cake work....

Baby Bang climbs an awesome dihedral!

This has mellow, juggy climbing up to the dihedral. Then climb into a crimpy section up and to the grand finale right before the chains.

Liquid Charcoal is very crimpy and technical with some really cool heel hooks. The climbing is pumpy and sustained, from the first bolt to the chains. A stickclip is recommended for that 1st bolt....

This has probably the best rock in the area - super solid - no choss at all.

It is a must if you're here.

Head up the black streak on easy climbing to a hard clip and the crux. Make it to the jugs off some small crimps via a boulder problem, mantel to the top, and clip the chains. I have not had time to brush the holds yet, and there maybe some loose junk near the anchor. I still have to clean it a bit more, so be aware. Once clean, it will be a fun, short, and powerful route.

This is the Red route in the picture.

Sit start low in the cave, right next to a little black boulder, on a flake that looks unstable but is tough as iron.

Pull up and lock off hard with your right hand and move out to an awesome incut crimp, bump  up and left to a better crimp. Throw a drop knee and shoot up into the crack above, a very low percentage move. Hold that guy with everthing you've got and setup on a slippery, slopey crimp left of the crack.

Setup your feet and go left, out and around the bulge to a sloper

This is shorter but nastier than "

Bang and Blame

".

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Bang's Canyon