Pitch 1: Follow a bolt line through a short chimney. Pitch 2:  Climb a long, steep crack. Loose at the top.

Victoria's Secret

Route To Nowhere

Regular Route

A fun little route to do if you've got time after finishing Queen Vic.  Pretty much sport, but I think I placed 1 small cam near the start.

This is one of the nicer easy routes I've done in Sedona and probably a pretty good one for a maiden climbing experience here. From the ridge on the approach, follow your nose west along the ridge to the east side of Queen Vic where the route is located.P1) Traverse in from the right across to a prominent chimney. Climb the chimney (5.6) to a fixed belay. I believe the anchors are visible from the ground for pitch one.P2) From the belay, traverse left across some easier ledges to a wide crack in the limestone band. Surmount this crack (crux) to gain a big ledge above. Scramble up left to a single bolt + small cam belay below the final pitch.P3) Out left on the south face, climb up to a prominent dihedral (the "trick dihedral"), climb up the dihedral, then up a bit, traverse right and up to gain the summit anchors.

Queen Vic is an attractive, pointy tower sitting on the ridgeline north of Schnebly Hill Road. This is a wonderful, mostly easy, outing that gets you to a nice summit overlooking Midgley Bridge, Oak Creek Canyon and Sedona.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Queen Victoria