Top-rope out of an alcove at the far east end of the Spillway Crag. The crux involves a piano traverse finger crack.

Dominant Partner

Ellery Arête

Guilt of the Fisherman

Unknown Dihedral

Roof-to-Dihedral

Unknown Bulge

Unknown thin crack

Unknown A

Triple Ripple

Crack

Unknown Tips Layback

Gold Mind

Start up the dihedral, using the crack/arete/counterpressure/whatevs to stay pasted to the rock. The faces steepen in the last few feet, but grant some positive holds right when you need them.

Begin on the right side of the arete, moving up over easy rock to the first bolt, from there three bolts and fun moves on either side of the arete bring you to a stance and the anchors.

This overhanging thin crack dihedral starts from on top of a small pedestal.

Runs over a small roof to a dihedral leading to the top of a block

Start on a ledge underneath a bulge of water-polished rock with a light orange varnish and a discontinuous shallow vertical crack system. Pull over the bulge to some jugs and a sweet jam if you can find it. From there, choose one:

meander left over rougher granite following a sort of soffit, then back right

continue follow the crack system directly up (may go at a different grade)

Then make a few more moves to the anchors.

The route starts with a balanc-y and delicate face that protects with thin nuts. About 20' up you encounter a crack that widens from fingers up to thin hands at the top. A fun route.

Thin crack with plenty of edges, that make it much more of a face climb.  Significantly harder if one tries to climb this as a pure crack.  It is possible to TR this from Gold Mind (directional recommended), finishing with a face traverse to that anchor.

Follow a thin hands crack and up to a roof with a single bolt, throw a heel hook, and ratchet up over the roof to a sinker hand jam.

Thin crack between gold mind and Ellery arete

From the boulders a few feet above flat ground, ascend via a flake (right, easier) or a 12' crack system (left, harder) to a ledge. Ascend via a steep tips-sized rail (crux) that mellows out into a slab, then climb a few more feet to the anchor bolts.

Crux is at the bottom of the climb.  It is a hand crack that does get wider as you go higher.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Ellery Dam Spillway Crag