Stem up a broken, mostly solid and sometimes wet corner/crack system, pull the bulge on good holds and the wiggle up a wide crack, or stem out right side, to an anchor five feet right of Couch Warrior. 5 bolts. Stick clip the first. Variation: stay right after the 4th bolt and clip an independent bolt out right for the 5th to another independent anchor left of Xena.

Disenchantment

Black Tar

Moon Boot Mission

Dragonslayer

Xena: Warrior Princess

Beastmaster

Tendon Bendin'

Perverse Traverse

Little Evil (aka Slope a Dope)

Crimp Chimp

Unknown Link-up

Muscle Hustle

Miss Jackson

Honkey Serial Killer

This is a very burly and continuous overhanging finger crack that takes good gear. It can be a little dirty especially after a rain. It is also a great little aid project A2, if you are not redpointing 5.12 trad. Finish at the anchors for Muscle Hustle.

Climbs from the left side of the wall diagonaling up to the right. Start on the first bolt of Slope-a-Dope, cross Muscle Hustle, cross Tendon Bendin', clip an independent link bolt then pull onto the final headwall of Crimp Chimp.

Far left side of the 45deg boulder, right of that slab route no one seems to know the name of.  Basically a very cool V7 boulder problem to a 5.11 slab to the chains.  A truly proud ascent would be to (highball) boulder it which would require plenty of pads and spotters...and confidence

Cruise up an overhanging juggy water-streak and work up and right to some thin moves. The crux is above the third bolt. A decent warm up for the area.

Powerful overhung climbing on good holds to a powerful 4th clip, a long draw is nice.  Then a well defined crux to a rest, to some thin technical, difficult when pumped climbing to the anchors.

Starts left of Crimp Chimp from the same belay platform across the stream. Fun sustained crimping, a good warmup for the fingers for the harder routes on the Main Wall.

Crank through some entertaining moves up big crimps trending right up a moderate overhang. Think Crimp Chimp, but not as hard or as good.  Technical crux might be a thin sequence between bolts two and three.  Also, the rock isn't great on the couple of moves past the overhang. Get psyched for a tricky mantle on chossy mossy rock near the chains.

This is a continuous line up superb steep rock with a crux at the beginning of the route. Start over the river on some beautiful sloping ledges for the first two bolts and then up to some good hidden pockets and edges up really steep terrain to the Muscle Hustle anchors. The Original anchors were in a bad spot so the location was moved. Stick clipping the second bolt is recommended, although the ground level has dropped since the route was installed. The route was given the false name "Slope a Dope" by someone other than the first ascensionist, but unfortunately is misinformation in all published guidebooks of the area. This could be a three star route, but it is too short.

Fairly steep bouldery/fingery climbing up the farthest route right on the right side of the 45deg boulder.  Fun.

After reaching the large clipping jug at the third bolt of Crimp Chimp make a large move up with the left hand to flat crimp-jug, clip and make a couple of strenuous moves establishing on the Tendon Bendin' clipping jug.

A bit contrived, don't use the crack on either side of the route. Stick clip the first bolt or two or end up on the rock or the river. If you make it just past the first bolt you should be good.

Start on the arete as for Beast Master and climb the extra four or so moves left into the start Honkey Serial Killer. Same finish as Dragon Slayer.

Start left of Beast Master on right-facing crimps and complete the difficult V9/10ish boulder problem to a good incut rail to make the third clip. From there make the continue left onto the slab and finish Dragon Slayer.   

  For a slightly easier, alternate variation, climb Honkey Serial Killer to the rest, then exit right and finish on Beast Master. This makes the ending both less desperate and technical and is most likely in the 13c/d range.  

Home of short steep routes. Some high quality, some low quality.

 Independent routes starting from next to the Main Wall:

Xena: Warrior Princess 5.10d

Dragonslayer 5.13b/c

Honkey Serial Killer 5.13d

Beastmaster 5.12c/d (05) Toss No Moss short 5.12 (06) Tweak Freak short 5.12

Little Evil (aka Slope a Dope) 5.12b

Muscle Hustle 5.12c

Black Tar 5.12+

Tendon Bendin' 5.12b/c

Crimp Chimp 5.12a

Perverse Traverse 5.11c (13) Shoulder Boulder V1 to Perverse Traverse anchor

 There is also a linkup between Tendon Bendin' and Crimp Chimp; Moonboot Mission 5.12c with one independant bolt.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in 45° Boulder