This route starts to the left of Kola and follows the bolting practice set by Summit with the first bolt around 17 ft off the ground. The route moves up and onto the left face of the spire.  Great holds and long reaches will get you into the exposed section on the extremely unstable looking vertical flake. Take care with clipping the 4th bolt; one wrong move and you could end up hanging in the tree below. Also be careful of the large loose block just above the main flake--a human could easily pull this down.

Separation Anxiety

Kola

Koka

This steep slab route is on the highest spire at the Far Side. Airy exposure and breath taking views make you want to take extra rests on this Mt. St. Helena classic.

I'm surprised this obvious trad route was never given a name or posted as a climb, perhaps because nearly all climbers at Mt. St. Helena prefer sport climbing and seldom climb trad routes. The route starts just left of Kola, which inspired the name I've dubbed this climb. Climb up the offwidth crack (1 star) and then the hand crack (4 stars) to the Kola anchor. Surprisingly there are very few face holds beside the hand crack, which requires some hand jamming. The crux is pulling a bulge at the start of the hand crack and then hanging on to place gear.

An old top rope freshly bolted for your moderate leading pleasure. A commuting lieback start leads to a bulge then a fun/tricky arete. Make sure to climb Kola (5.9 mega classic) which shares the same anchor.

Description

Protection

Routes in Kola Spire