Start back in the deep chimney and with back against the wall climb up 20 feet or so for some gear. Keep working the chimney until the crack starts arching over you. Work your self to the front of the opening, while plugging gear and approach the lip of the roof. Pull the roof and power through to ledgy territory and belay off a tree.

Little Big Man

Fastback

Fade to Black

Gracious Gift

Crash and Burn

No Shadow of Darkness

Hannibal the Cannibal

Prophets of Baal

The Grand Traverse

Probation

The Statesman

Spartican

Harvester of Sorrow

Bushwacker

Tomahawk

Fu Man Chu

The Black

Cosmic Hippo

Silent Power

Painted Warrior

Cocked N' Loaded

Falling Down

Speak No Evil

Insidious

Wet Warrior

Demise of Mr. Riffraff

Pain and Suffering

Vision Quest

Buffalo Bill

Geshido

Wisdom and Folly

Walk up the easy detached pillar start for 20 feet. Step right and follow the  winding seam that alters from slight overhang, to slab, and back to overhang. Fun and technical movement is only marred by some crumbly rock, but overall a great climb, and a solid warm up for the routes on the painted wall.

Awesome arete and face climb that runs up a leaning detached pillar. Work the arete for some bolts then bust off shooting for the first hueco on the left face. Connect crimps and high steps up the sustained face. 

Starts in wide crack, intersects roof at 50 feet, then 35 feet of horizontal offwidth, and finally pulling through and emerging in daylight and fresh air.

A slabby climb situated between two cracks that will make you think the whole way up. decent rock leads to jugs and a small crooked tree at the anchors.

Climb 30 feet through the white face and watergroove on decent gear and lichen.  Continue through the overhanging hand and fist crack to the top.

Start in a seam protected by a couple spaced bolts and not much gear.  After passing the bulge, scramble up easy terrain for a bit.  The crack steepens here, and there's a stance to plug some gear before the crux: a left angling, overhanging hand crack that culminates in a bulge.

 Fun climbing!

This climb follows a bolted seam through varying steepness, looks like it was retro bolted if I remember correctly. manage your way up through the first bulge,  take a break then fire through the overhanging finish being careful not to pull off anything on your belayer.  

  Have a helmet for your belayer, I pulled off a few holds and broke a foot or two off. rock quality is so-so at best.

An Arkansas classic and true gem of the state.

 The longest route in the region featured on one of the more impressive amphitheaters around. 

 Beware: This is a commiting lead for the follower as any falls will result in a pendulum swing that can be rather scary for inexperienced followers. Be aware of the grade and make sure you're comfortable in terrain of this style. It's also a good idea to bring some long runners/alpine draws to mitigate some of the drag you can experience on this route. 

P1: "The Golden Shower" 5.11a

  Locate the ledge feature on the left side of the wall (traverse runs L-R). There will be a pair of glue in bolts (route has been recently updated with SS glue ins back in 2013). Traverse right from here with some easy to moderate terrain until you reach the crux bolt (bolt #5). Decipher the crux bulge and move onward to the anchors. Take a sigh as the hardest part of the climb is now over.  *there tends to be a bit of wetness on this route depending upon season. Ideally avoid this route during wet conditions as the nature of the rock is rather soft.

P2: 5.10b

 Adventure onward through the traverse; beware of the sandy slopes ahead and other possible natural cruxes you may encounter. Pretty fun movement on some questionable quality stone will lead you to the third pitch anchors.

P3: 5.10a "The Mean Green"

 Continue your traverse adventure till you reach a large ledge. Pull around the ledge and find the somewhat hidden bolt before gaining the balancy crux. From here you reach the anchors and can make a rappel to the ground (as is the most popular option these days) or utilize the trad gear you may have lugged along to do the historical finish per the FA parties route. ("Original Finish 5.11a).

 In all this route is a very safe adventurous quest that pales in comparison to any other multipitch in the state. Well worth the effort and adventure to climb.

Scoot past a tree, double cracks and a groove to the base of a flaring notch entering a brief chimney and a small mossy crux overhang.

Begin on a slab and climb through a challenging move just past the first bolt. Follow an impressive dike feature that gradually steepens before transitioning to large holds. Bring a small cam to protect the slight run-out between the first two bolts. 

Climb the left angling hand and fist crack to the base of the chimney.  After pulling through the 10 foot long chimney, head either right (preferred) or left around the roof and finish on chickenheads for the last few feet.

Challenging moves in a shallow dihedral lead to a no hands rest below the roof. Powerful and sequential movement through the roof crack finishes on glory jugs at the lip.  

Next to a detached pillar and a cave opening, climb the easy right wall until you reach the good crack. Work the crux section carefully and run in out to the top.

A interesting addition to a beautiful wall.  The first half can be lead on just draws. the second half requires a couple pieces of gear. Five bolts on the first half(crux) lead to a set of anchors on a ledge. Pass these, and get into the upper headwall which includes many technical moves, and some dynamic crack climbing. First half is a bouldery one move wonder, second half is sustained. Use first set of anchors to clip on your way down if needing to clean without a follower.

Thin and technical nearly vertical slab climb. Climbs past 4 bolts. Sustained climbing for a short pitch but lets up after the last bolt.

Beautiful route that follows the prominent black streak just to the right of painted warrior.  This route is the best quality sandstone route I have ever been on.  Unlike painted warrior, this route is not made of a broken system of flakes, but rather "molded" in bomber crimps.  First pitch is 12b, and second is 12d.  Done in 1 pitch it takes the 13a grade (and the only way to do it in my opinion!).

Start up the handish corner crack until you gain a ledge with a tree. This is where you test your luck. Begin up the offwidth, smearing and stemming while placing pro in the disappearing, increasingly mossy (seasonal) crack. After the nut check, get good pro in and continue into the belly of the beast. Place your larger pieces up high, then ride through the glorious finish. 

  If it wasn't so dirty, it would get my vote for the best offwidth in Arkansas.

P1: Start on crunchy rock just right of the large arete, which steepens wildly about 60 feet above you.  The first few bolts are spaced, but the climbing is easy enough.  Continue upwards to gain a crack that soon arches left.  Leave the crack to follow the bolts towards the hanging belay in a wild position below the roof.

 P2: Head left and around the corner from the belay.  A line of bolts wanders up the overhanging face above.

Climb the pocketed face to the base of the arete/dihedral system, attaining a ledge halfway up the wall.  Continue past the first anchors on steep face climbing to the top of the wall for one amazing route.

An okay route on okay rock, but not one to write home about. Start on low angled, featured, but potentially dangerous rock with small gear, well spaced.  Follow through the left side of the roof above, onto a platform.  Then aim for the obvious fingertip flake splitting the headwall, left of the arete. Pull through this to a nice little belay perch.  Use the tree, crack and/or Wisdom & Folly's anchors to bring up the second.

Face climb on sometimes bad rock between well spaced bolts.  This route used to be rated 5.8.  It's very likely that some holds broke off.  It also used to be a toprope and probably should have stayed that way.

Climb the orange arete, moving left on holds to the base of the overhang.  Pull over to a slabby section in the sweet dihedral.  At the top of the dihedral, traverse right under the roof to top out.

The best of the 3 bolt lines on this short, gray wall. Sustained, technical climbing through a series of crimps, pockets, and grooves that lets up at the end.

Painted Warrior to the first set of anchors. Good option if the top of painted warrior is wet.

In the small alcove, this is the crack line right of the bolted face.  A small tree is in the crack near the top of the route.

This is a 45 degree overhanging finger crack with a bouldery start and finish. Sean's original name for this route is right on the money with pain tolerance being key. What this line lacks in length it makes up for in power. Find the crux exiting the crack and making it to the anchors. On the free ascent of this, the first pitch actually ended at a no-hands stance above the anchors, but below the second roof. Enjoy one of Arkansas' most difficult cracks.

Slopers,crimps,underclings,and just all out Fun. The Best 5-13 in the State

Cool layback route on the massive orange detached block. Be careful getting established in the layback as there is a large loose segment that could come down if pulled on.

Time to Geshido!!!   A gnarly, cryptic crux. The first half leads out the 30 foot ceiling in a hanging, horizontal dihedral that has both crimps and jams hidden in it's dark corners.  Stepping off the ground can be the crux, depending on your height. If your lucky, a couple blocks will be there to aid in grabbing the starting holds. 

   Pull through the ceiling, and clip one more fixed draw. Lower from here, for a sport climbing experience, or continue on to the top of the wall(5.9R, mixed)on fun, varied and steep terrain. A set of anchors is at the lip. Don't forget to look out at the valley and the Throne.

Beautiful lichen covered face of rock.   Slightly overhanging, Good jugs all over.

The Longest, most dramatic and varied routes in the area. Some of the most classic sport and traditionally protected routes in the region.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Valley of The Blind