An amazing line that should be 4 stars but unfortunately has a not so great finish.  Starts out on a hollow left trending flake with 4's deep inside.  Once the crack turns into a splitter it gradually narrows down through the sizes from 3's to the smallest cam you can find.  In my opinion the anchor should of been placed where the crack pinches to less than tips and there is a small hold to clip from (solid 5.12 to this point).  To get to the anchor you need to make ridiculously hard moves with no feet and nothing to hold onto, while the crack continues to pinch shut.  The last part of the route may be possible by some ubers out there, but I think most will have to resort to aid.  Also it is not actually known if this route has ever been freed?

Note: The 12+ grade is just a guess and the actually grade is probably harder.

Despot

Nomadic Alternative

Little Man in Suburbia

Keepin' up with the Jones

Big Fat Friend

R.I.L.F.

A Long Way From Suburbia

Manifest Destiny

Cowboys in Control

Girl Next Door

Pizza Party

Unknown 5.10

Cul-de-sac

Red Lock in Suburbia

Killer

starts with a step across into the crack from block which must be scrambled to.  splittter hands to big hand and the shallow right facing corner to fists at the anchor

Would be great if it was only longer.  Thin hands start to perfect hands through a slight overhang.

It may be short but it sure is fun!  Less than vertical finger crack with feet.  Tips to ringlocks or really tight thin hands.

Clean, left facing left trending corner that quickly widens from 1" to 4" in ~20 feet and then slowly widens to 6" before the chains.

Rarely do you find splitter cracks through large roofs in the desert, but thats exactly what R.I.L.F. has to offer for those that are willing to hike.  The 8' roof is reached by a series of discontinuous finger cracks with a combination of jamming and face climbing.  From under the roof a splitter #3 Camalot crack will take you out to the lip with a crux move getting established above.  10 more feet of easy climbing brings you to a ledge and the anchor.

Splitter hand crack leads to a fun roof and then easy terrain over poor quality rock to a two piton anchor. Be very careful if you lower- there are many rope grooves and it’s very easy for the rope to get stuck forcing you to climb back up so rapping to clean and not toproping it may be the best strategy.

A great route in a left facing corner that starts with thin hands and slowly opens up to offwidth.  Good warm-up.

Climb a short offwidth pod into a low angle right facing corner.

This is 130' of a #5 Camalot crack in a right-facing corner. There's a pod where you can place a #6.  I got a tipped out #4 at the part where it cuts right (at about 90' or so) but it wasn't great.

It is less-than-vertical most of the way. The crux is probably in the first 10 feet or so, as that's the steepest part.

We used a 70 meter rope and it seemed just about right.

Big hands in a low angle left facing corner leads to steeper hands up a right facing corner.  Don't try to lower back down the route, just stay to the right of the pillar.

Climb a hand crack to a ledge about 20 feet up. Follow the crack as it briefly widens to OW/chimney (easier than it looks) before pinching down to tight hands through a bulge. More hand jamming above gets you to the chains in an alcove.

Start up an awkward corner.   Then follow a #3 camalot crack out of the corner and head up a excellent offset splitter that eats #1 camalots. The route finishes at a small ledge with a bolted anchor.

Killer starts with all sizes of fingers in a beautiful wavey left facing offset.  After about 60' climb into a big pod/chimney for a nice rest and then continue up more offset fingers to a tricky move getting onto a ledge.  A short right facing corner leads to another left facing offset and the anchors.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Suburbia