Pitch 1 - Make an awkward move to gain a chimney, climb the corner/face to another chimney.  Belay on the huge ledge.  80' 

  Pitch 2 - Start in the right chimney (the left is Squeeze Of Lime). At the top of the chimney, move right and climb up on jugs.  Belay on a ledge with small cams. 100' 

  Pitch 3 - Go up the ramp to the right and gain a hand crack. Climb the crack to a huge ledge and belay from a tree. This is a good pitch. 140' 

  Pitch 4 - Go up and right to a boulder and climb the corner to another ledge. Belay on a ledge. 

  Pitch 5 - This pitch is mostly 4th class.  Belay on a huge ledge from a tree.  90' 

  Descent: Scramble and bushwhack down and left (east).  A pocketed chimney leads down to the main rappel route.

Country Quencher

Margaritaville

Strawberry Hill

Rolling Thunder

Fine Whine

Under Raps

Berry Nice

Squeeze Of Lime

Strawberry Fields Forever

Pitch 1 - Start in a crack and move up about 30'.  Step right and continue up to a huge  belay ledge.  This pitch has awkward climbing. The lower portion is kinda mossy so expect to get dirty! 80' 

  Pitch 2 - Start in the corner.  Pull around the corner and through a roof.  This is the crux of the climb.  Once through the roof continue up on jugs to webbing.  The pro is not obvious through the roof though it's definitely there.  100' 

  Pitch 3 - Climb the face/cracks on great pro. Once the rock starts to get iffy, make a traverse left on good holds to the base of a corner and belay. 80' 

  Pitch 4 - Climb up the corner to a face.  Make some calculated moves on thin pro.  Work up and left on easy terrain.  This pitch might deserve a PG rating.  100'

On the far left (eastern) side of the Strawberry Hill buttress, there is a clean, right-facing corner.  Fourth class scrambling leads to a belay stance at its base.  Climb the corner, surmount the overhang above it, and continue to a belay ledge on the crest.  Face climbing leads to a a bigger ledge with some large bushes.  This point can also be reached by a crack system to the right (between this line and Berry Nice).  A black dihedral rises from this ledge.  Climb the dihedral with small cams for protection.  Two or three more pitches continue on easier climbing, joining Berry Nice for the cruise to the summit.  Walk right (west) to rappel.

Climb a long pitch up the varnished crack system to reach a large ledge.  The right-facing corner is easily visible above.  The second pitch starts with a boulder move onto the main wall and continues up the corner.  A few more pitches of mostly face-climbing take you to the summit. 

  Go right (west) to the rappel route.

An elegant crack system shoots up the middle of the wall, about twenty yards to the right of Fine Whine.  It is probably best to climb a short pitch up the initial chimney in order to have enough rope to reach the next belay.  The second pitch follows the thin crack, makes crux moves past a small bulge, and finally passes a larger but easier overhang above.  For the third pitch it is again best to halt on the top of a small pillar in the right-facing corner system.  The fourth pitch is also a long (60 meter+) to ledges near the dead rappel tree.  If in doubt, consider setting up a hanging belay in the corner. 

  The name came about when the FA party encountered a lot of precarious loose rock immediately above the crux overhang.

Climb the obvious corner and crack system above, eventually reaching the large ledge midway up the western wall.  Continue across the ledge and up a crack to a belay position by a short chimney.  Climb up the crack and traverse left at a large prominent varnish patch, then straight up to the summit. 

  Walk west to the rappel tree.

Pitch 1 - Begin in a crack in the black rock. Climb this for one long or two short pitches up to a good ledge beneath a white slab. 

  pitch 2 - Climb the face to a belay on the left. 

  Pitch 3-5.  Mostly 4th class to the summit. Walk right to a dead pine tree.

Pitch 1 - Make a move or two up face to a broken corner, around a few boulders and up a slab to the huge belay ledge.  5.5 80' 

  Pitch 2 - Make some easy well protected moves up to the left chimney, getting into the squeeze chimney is a bit awkward.  Top the chimney and set a belay another 20'up.  5.7 90' 

  Pitch 3 - Climb some face trending slightly right to an easy hand crack.  Top the hand crack, climb some face and set a belay. 5.6  150' 

  Pitch 4 -  Climb another easy pitch to a ledge and set a belay at a bush.  5.4 80' 

  Descent: Bushwack left and scramble down and left to a pocketed chimney.  

Strawberry Fields Forever runs parallel to the Lucander-DeAngelo route (Strawberry Hill) on enjoyable cracks. The first two pitches are somewhat adventurous. Soloists and beginner leaders eat your hearts out on pitches 3 and 4 - the rock is good and the climbing is secure.Pitch 1 (5.7, 130 feet): Climb a wide left-facing corner to the top of a miniature white pillar. Boulder up varnished stone into the chimney and enjoy the three-dimensional sandstone chamber. Belay at the top of the pillar.Walk 30 feet left along the narrow crest of the pillar before dropping down into the gully. Muscle past a scrub oak to the base of a short left-facing corner/groove.Pitch 2 (5.7, 60 feet): Climb the short left-facing corner/groove and walk 30 feet right along the ledge. Set a belay with nuts and small cams at the base of a juggy weakness in the short varnished overhang.P2 direct variation (5.8+ R, 30 feet): From the P1 belay, go straight across the brushy gap and climb directly up the unprotected, crunchy face.Pitch 3 (5.8, 170 feet): Monkey past the overhang on huge buckets to a crux mantel before setting cruise control for a long stretch of sustained 5.fun crack. At the top ledge, walk 20 feet right and belay in a short finger crack.Pitch 4 (5.7, 180 feet): To start this pitch, you can either: (1) Climb the short fingercrack and then traverse 20 feet right across fins to gain the main crack, or (2) Move the belay 20 feet right into a nook directly below the main crack. Either way you're headed for an obvious wide crack with a right-facing flake on its left side. Climb up the crack about 80 feet to an easy step-across left into the flake, then ride the varnished flake up to a ledge belay.Pitch 5 (5.5, 110 feet): Climb the pink summit knob via the obvious left-leaning crack.Descent: As for all other routes on Strawberry Hill. Scramble down west to a dead tree + boulder anchor and make a ~210-foot rappel. Scramble down west to a bush anchor and make a ~70-foot rappel. Zig-zag down 3rd-class ramps back to the starting ledge.

This buttress is full of great moderates!  The rock quality is great and it's easily approached.  The buttress is naturally divided into two main sections.  The slabby eastern section is immediately to the right of the Echove area and Hot Flash.  The western part is the area of  the primary rappel descent as well as routes such as Under Raps and Country Quencher.  This is reached by skirting west near the base of the main wall and climbing some exposed third class to ledges beneath the rap route. 

  The main descent for routes reaching the top of the buttress is to walk west for about 50 yards and rappel from a large dead tree.  The first rappel is long (almost 50 meters).  Two more rappels, each less than 25 meters, lead to the ground at the western end of the buttress.  Scrambling leads down the slabs to the approach trail.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Strawberry Hill Buttress