Big moves on Jugs with in between crimps and two finger pockets, typical of routes at the Tower.  An excellent climb that can be out in the sun late as it is out around the prowl. Top is run-out but is on 5.6 territory.

Houkah

Prima Donna

Labour of Love

Merlins Mantra

Tweedle Dee

POGy WOG

Funk Shui

Jeremy Fisher

Unknown

Blessed and Blissed

Ooey Gooey

Party Pogues

Never Never Land

Tweedle Dum

Buzz Lightyear

Now and Zen

The Tale of Jemima Puddleduck

Pogue's Arete

Big moves on jugs most of the way.  High crux makes the pump factor the big fight.

The route just right of the cave in the middle of the wall. Two starts, you can either do the direct start above the killer desert spiky yucca, or climb the the easier slabby rock to the left. Clip the first bolt (hint, look for the stellar under-cling), then continue up two different overhanging jug hauls. Jugs all there but may be difficult to find through the overhangs. Nice 5.10 route!

Climbs through a low bulge, up a technical face, then through another bulge at the top. After clipping the lower bolt continue up up through some trickyish moves. After hitting the face it is not as simple as it looks! Some areas where holds are a little difficult to find but of course all there. Charge through the roof at the top and clip the chains. A nice long route! 

  Note that in the Enchanted Tower Guidebook (Fazio-Rhicard & Guy Agee, 2003) this route is listed as ?????? 5.11a.

Climb the funky waterfall streak at right side of the wall. Can't miss the huge no hands rest after the first few moves of the ground! Could take a nap there if you wanted.

This route still has some flakey rock around the second bolt, but should continue to clean up nicely. The upper arete is great steep climbing. 

  Start on large huecos and head straight up, before reaching the overhanging wall above move left into a scoop near the blunt arete. Climb up into the scoop and clip a bolt just below a ledge. Find the good holds on the ledge and mantle. Climb the steep arete on good pockets and a horizontal. Move right to mantle onto the ledge where the anchor is located.

Up and left to an overhang.  Good jug pulling.

Crux is fighting the pump near the 4th bolt, look for the solid undercling to make the clip easier and then turn the lip.  The usual big moves on giant jugs that you expect at the Tower.

Start just right of the tiered roof that is Never Never land.  Boulder up the first bolt on harder than it looks rock.  Clip the first bolt and pull the crux on underclings or small pockets.  Don't worry it get's easier from here.  Continue up pulling a small overhang to a nice ledge.  Continue up passing 4 more bolts on large holds to the anchor. 

  I had put off doing this route as it is one of three climbs that don't get any stars in the Enchanted Tower Guide.  Guide warns about large loose blocks by the second bolt.  While there are some large "features" here I didn't find them loose or unattached from the main rock.  This may have cleaned up substantially over the past few years. 

  Slightly run-out between the 2nd and third bolt.  Although it is easy here there is a nice ledge to hit and maybe the ground.  Picture shows the distance between them right after i've clipped the third bolt.

Crimpy, thin route with crux going over the bulge. Holds difficult to find, so memorize tick marks before leaving the ground!

Enjoyable and fairly sustained route (after you get through the bottom, anyhow). First clip is perhaps a bit higher than you might want it but a stick clip is always an option. Work yourself into the giant hueco and then reach up for a jug and pull an interesting move over a bulge. 

  After working through the bulge, take all the rest you need and head right and straight up through the business. Sustained and steep through the next three bolts. Crux comes after the third bolt.  

  Route starts left of the funky water trough that is Merlins Mantra.

An enticing line which starts at the back of Pogues cave. It is essentially a traverse, except cramped up under the roof. There is no simple way to back-clean/top-rope the route, and the second risks as big falls as the leader. Plus there is extensive guano on some sections. If all this doesn't turn you off, then you're in for an exciting and worthwhile route.  

  The major difficulties lay in the traverse section. Once the 4th bolt (the last bolt under the roof) is passed the climbing becomes easier. Beware as the rock is quite loose underneath the chimney section.

Steep! Climb two bolts to a fair rest, then tackle steep rock with several small roofs.  Pull the crux where the holds thin to a no hands rest.  Pass about 2 spaced bolts on 5.8 terrain to the anchors.

Big moves on Jugs.  Crux is just before the wall goes over the lip and easy climbing to the chains.

Just to the left of The Tale of Jemima Puddleduck there is a bolt on a steep and improbable looking piece of rock. The holds are difficult to too see but the route goes just fine, though difficult at the start. After clipping a bolt low clip the bolt on the roof. The next move is the crux, there is an OK 2-3 finger pocket with a long reach to a ginormous jug. Once you hit the jug you can clip the third bolt. 

  Not quite done yet! Continue through steep juggy, and somewhat dirty climbing to the chains. Be prepared to nock some sand and a few pebbles onto your belayer, it appears that this route is not done much (was worried a hold might come off! But fortunately it did not happen!).

A really nice route, though watch the loose rock at the bottom! Bolts may seem quite spaced apart for the lower 5.10 leader. Crux is at the top, going through the overhang.

A very nice route! Pumpy. A great lead for the 5.11 leader. Steep and sustained. The crux move is just after the second bolt. Straight forward after this, just follow the chalk and the jugs. Beware of the pump! 

Beginning upside-down inside the cave, Pogue's Arete climbs the ceiling for four bolts before turning the roof and continuing up on easier ground for another 15 feet. Monstro jugs make this bucket-haul more of a test of forearm endurance than power. Pulling the roof seems to be the crux, but being that you're out over the opening of the cave, the falls are super clean, so just go for it!

This area gets it's name from a sort of slot cave in the middle of the wall. It is probably the biggest section of unbroken, climbable wall, and features a pretty full collection of routes. Most of the routes are vertical to overhanging and feature big pockets that will pump you silly. The area is popular, but usually easy to work in and around other climber groups. Lots of fun climbing here!

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Pogue's Cave Area