Follow thin cracks to really nice ledge after the second bolt. Rest up for the blunt arete/face moves above to the anchors.  The crux for me was clipping and moving past the last bolt.

Cockeyed

Chicken Cha Cha

Cock Star

Fowl Play

Stunt Cock

Cock-a-Doodle-Do

Finger Lichen Good

Crack L of Cockeyed

Chicken Out

Cockwork Orange

Chicks with Ricks

Poultrygeist

This fun crack is by far the easiest route in the Poultrygeist Area.  It hardly seems worth the effort to haul a rack all the way up the hill for the small number of trad lines here, but this route is easily TR-ed by traversing left from the anchors of Cockeyed. 

  Begin the same as for Cockeyed with tricky stemming and crimping.  At the big ledge, head for the obvious dihedral, offering easier stemming and good face holds.

The furthest east route at the Poultrygeist section of the Cockscomb, this fine route begins with a burly start on steep rock.  Several long, shouldery reaches lead to a clean panel of beautiful orange and black basalt.  After the hard start, easier moves on the vertical upper face lead to the anchor.

While not the finest route at the Coxcomb, "Cock Star" is still pretty fun and worth doing. Technical arete climbing up lower-angled rock leads to a distinct (and possibly height-dependent) crux at the fourth bolt. Snatch the killer pockets and cruise to the anchors.

Really thin moves on a smooth face lead to a tough roof to enjoyable arete climbing above to the anchors.  A large block at the roof offers nice holds all around but just appears to be sketchy.  I tried not to pull on it too hard!

Though this route is low angle, it is not as simple as it looks! Technical, sustained, thin, and slopers, it is difficult to find a secure feeling position. Far from the best of it's grade in the state but most certainly the best of its grade at this crag (only because it's the only of its grade at this crag). It was certainly worth doing if you happen to be there.

A nice route heading up a prominent nose looking arete. Starts as a slab. Great route with less than secure moves in places.

Presumably the crag warm-up, providing sublime movement on stellar rock.  This route faces a bit more north than all the others, so is the first route in the area to get shade. 

  Begin with sloping crimps on the slightly slabby, lichen-covered wall.  At midheight several cool gas pockets appear and the difficulty eases.

This fun climb begins with a short slab that leads to a big-ish roof, and finishes with a so-so dihedral.  Begin in a broad corner, passing a seemingly unnecessary bolt to a good stance below the roof.  Clip up high and left, then ascend directly over the roof (perhaps just a bit rightwards) on killer-good jugs and maybe a heel-hook. 

  Ascend the arete left of the dihedral for a few bolts before veering right into the ever-steepening dihedral.  Dwindling holds and a building pump lead to the anchor.

This stout number begins above a talus covered shelf. A steep overhang right off the ground provides the brief crux of powerful and sequential pockets. Beware of the 2-finger sucker side pull at the start that could easily cause a severe injury. Instead use the large but less-deep 3 finger dish up and right. A long move leads to a good jug, then a devious crux move leads to more jugs, and fun cruising on good crimps to the anchor. 

Start in the boxy "phone booth" looking formation on the rock. Fun stemming leads you to underneath a bulgy overhang. Pull through the jugs, clip a welcome bolt, and gain a nice stance before continuing up the arete. A few cruxy, thoughtful moves lead to some jugs and an interesting finish.

The next sport route to the right of Cock-a-doodle-do. Start up the slab to a large ledge, and head right, up the sequency sustained, crimpy face.

The routes at the Poultrygeist area tend to be a little more diverse than those on in the Chicken Little Area, with more pockets, overhangs, some jugs, and some exciting stemming. I thought the routes actually tended to be more fun here, in general. The routes range from low 5.10 to 5.12a.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Poultrygeist Area