P1 - climb a crack to the end (20ft) traverse across the face left (1 bolt) go over a bulge to a tree on a ledge (80ft)   P2 - ascend squeeze chimney to offwidth (crux) exit through roof and up the face to a bush (100ft)   P3 - face climb into chimneys and weird climbing   P4 - keep climbing to the summit

Crack of Infernity

Bighorn Buttress

Croakstone

Fevered

Cool route with a short chimney section on Pitch 4. I remember doing a few runouts but the climbing is easy. Somewhat wandering but not to bad. There are no bolts or fixed anchors on this route. Quality rock in a good location and a relatively short approach. The route goes up the center of the left half of the wall.

Bighorn Buttress ascend's the obvious varnished buttress located on the tier directly above the Black track buttress.Start near the right hand side of the buttress on top of a small pillar, on a good ledge. start up the face aiming for a short, thin crack leading to a small bush. Above the bush locate a bolt about 20ft up the face. Climb past the bolt and pull the bulge above(you'll be alittle runout), leading to another crack. Pitch 1 is 5.10- Belay at the obvious stance with fixed knots!! Pitch 2 starts up the obvious crack then heads right on the face towards a bolt, you'll want the bolt to be above you on the traverse. Turn the corner of the arete and find another bolt. From here there are 2 option's. Option 1; continue across the obvious varnished face, on very poor(breakable) holds until you reach a bolt(5.11+). Option 2; head straight up the arete until you reach an obvious horizontal hand traverse then climb right to the aforementioned bolt(5.10). From the bolt head up the obvious varnished corner, thru an easier section then up another varnished corner. Belay on the left side of the big ledge below some bush's. Pitch 3 Climb a shallow right facing varnished corner then up a white face, passing a bolt to a 2 bolt anchor(5.9).It is possible and recommended to link pitch's 3&4. Pitch 4 Climb the varnished face past a bolt aiming for the obvious right leaning crack. Continue up the crack to the summit (you'll once again be a little runout) and belay off of fixed gear in the summit boulder (5.10). 

  To descend rappel off the fixed gear in the summit boulder to the bolt anchor at the top of pitch 3. From the top of pitch 3 rappel to an anchor on a ledge to the right of the route- 2 ropes are needed one 70M will not work. From this anchor rappel to the ledge near the start of the route.

It is unclear whether this entire route was climbed or descended previously. There is an old section of blue rope tied around a suspect but ok flake about 10' above P1 belay. I found no signs of climber activity above that rope. My guess is that P1 was climbed and bailed from years past. 

  P1: Scramble up cracks and slabs to some low angle terrain. A few more moves gain a nice sized ledge with a great 1" and 2" crack belay. 5.5 80' 

  P2: Move left of the belay to the right facing corner and make your way up. The climbing is somewhat sustained through the crack, well protected and enjoyable for a short time. There is quite a bit of loose rock up towards the top. I clipped a sling around one sturdy chockstone for pro and you have no choice but to climb right over some less compelling versions. 5.8 100' 

  To descend we gained the next major ledges above the route. On the north east side of this ledge I slung webbing around a large chunk of rock. One single rope rappel gets you back to the top of P1, 90' Rope stretch keeps you from popping off the ends. We then left a carabiner and rapped off the old blue tat rope on the detatched flake above P1 belay back to base.

This is the area located on the tier above Hidden Falls. Routes include Bighorn Buttress and Beau Geste.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Lost Creek Canyon