Starting in the wide crack on the far left move up to a good stance and make moves out to the right and up to a jug on the vertical face. The crux involves a tiny crim, a decent crimp and a move to the right to grab a solid jug. Another big move or two and you are clipping the anchors. Short but quite sweet. 

Astro Creep

Moss Line

Steady State

Escape Room

As you approach The Block you will see an off-width crack on the left side where is it detached from the cliff, Steady State starts by laybacking that crack. It is too big for gear so there are bolts to protect it. After the crack, stand on the ledge and ponder the delightful crimpy boulder problem that gets you to the lip of the boulder. Execute that and traverse left to the highpoint and the anchor.

If you love a good crimpy face route in the hard 5.12 range you must do this one! Once a mossy streak just left of the 90 degree arete on the block Jay cleaned it off and made it work. Basically a 5.12a that leads to a really hard finish involving a tiny hold, a sloper, an arete and a dynamic deadpoint or jump depending on your reach. There are options for shorter folks but it is better suited to longer climbers. 

This one is a little extra interesting. I think it has some of the best movement of the routes on Bald Knob. Somewhat unfortunately it is stuck behind the block in a narrow passage. I think that makes it kinda cool but it is a little contrived since you could totally stem off the wall behind you if you decided to. You also need an attentive belayer. The falls can all be done safely but not every belay is a solid belay (hint, don't keep a big loop of slack out on this one.... or anywhere that's not a clean overhanging pumpfest). Okay, enough with the set up. Walk around The Block and through a comfortable passage into "the back room". This line climbs the detached flake to a jug, traverses left on edges, moves up the arete and back right to the anchor. The last bolt is a little oddly placed but can be clipped easily if you find the position. Rock quality dictated its position. Expect a variety of movement and holds and expect to use your core muscles!

To the right of Cavern Cliff you will find a perfect house sized block of granite that features some really fine (if a bit short) sport climbs. Vertical face climbing on crimps.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in 6- The Block