Crack to face located between Queen Mother's Route (5.2) and Land of Wonder  (5.10c)

Rusty Thinking

Glad Hander

Kiss Me Where I Pee

Rites of Passage

The Conundrum

Gordoba

Delusions

Prom Queen

Gnatty Dread

Just Drive, She Said

Meatlocker

This is a pleasant crack climb, with a few tricky moves.

This is a clean crack with a face start/  The crux is getting over the headwall near the top.

Moderate climbing leads up and right to the crux dihedral.  Here the rock is fabulous - solid with superb friction.  A very difficult chimney move gets you up into the dihedral, where you can use "dished out" features of the left wall for your feet.  I've never climbed a 5.11 crack that required more leg strength or less arm strength - all pushing and no pulling.

The Conundrum has the single hardest move I've ever successfully made on stone.  Todd Battey lead the climb and got the crux move first try; once at the top, he belayed myself, Dave Stahl, and Rob Stahl for well over an hour as we all took turns , unsuccessfully , to make the crux move. After the three of us tried many times each, I finally got lucky and stuck it about on my 6th or so try.  It's a tall man's problem too, which , I believe , helped Battey and I make the one very difficult move.  This is a trad climb on the right side of the Frontier wall.

Hand jamming takes you up a strongly overhanging crack.  This is the most strenuous part of the route, but the lieback exit felt like the crux to me.

There are two possible places to start; one that's well-protected but difficult, and a second that's easier but poorly protected.  I couldn't do the first, and climbed the second.  Tiny RP's give questionable protection.  Above the start, hand and fist jamming in the back of the strongly overhanging, flared chimney makes the climb worthwhile.

This is an awkward crack with some jamming and stemming - not much fun.

This route consists of stemming up a dihedral, plus a fun crux roof.  It is well protected.

From the ground, this looks like a sustained offwidth.  In face, it has a very short offwidth crux down low, with moderate chimneying above.

The Meatlocker is located in the center of the Frontier Wall, bracketed by the Snake Bite and the Forbidden Zone.  It starts in a deep alcove which turns into hand/finger crack over a roof.

This one is a true JT "full value pitch".  All the tricks come out; full stems, edge cranking, hand and finger jamming, and of course, the love of grain.

Burly moves off the ground to stem your way out of the meatlocker and into the roof.  More cranking is required to pull the roof to a good stance.  Continue through good fingers to a small stance before some poor rock.  Excellent gear can be found just below this section, but moving through rates a PG.  Continue through another roof with spectacular position and solid holds.  Easy climbing continues to the top.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Frontier Wall