A fun and unusual climb for Seneca.  Begin on the right side of the gently overhanging face just North of the final belay on Skyline.  Climb big holds on the right side of the overhanging face to the top.  Belay over the top.  Rap from slings with biners to climbers right.

Colby Martin Route

Sir Thomas

Wind Up

A Christian Delight

Up and Coming

Midway

Highway To Hell

Lady Elaine

Expletive Deleted

Start at the bottom of the Upper Broadway chimney where there is a mound of debris. Start from this mound.

#1. Climb the crack to a ledge. Move up and left to intersect with Old Ladies near the left side of the Cockscomb. Traverse right and belay beneath the Discontent crack. (85 ft.)

#2. Climb Discontent for a few feet until it is possible to move right to a small orange crack. Follow this flake and crack up and to the right. Easy rock leads to the summit. (90 ft.)

Easy climbing throughout with fairly positive holds. Two points of easy protection in the first 20/25 feet and then run out to about 50 foot up to a difficult nut or small hex placement. From there run it out to bisect the second pitch of old ladies then traverse towards the start of the second pitch of old ladies.

Recommend long extensions on gear to minimize rope drag through the minimal pieces. Our team felt this was more of a 5.4 X, the grade loaded here recognizes what is in the guide book.

Start at the first outcrop of significance at the far left end of the Lower Broadway Ledge.

#1. Climb the flake up to a ledge. Follow the left crack to the top. (70 ft.)

Good route to reach Humphrey's head.  Move up ledges to left facing corner, with a couple of stem moves to a small overhang.  Move up small ledges to the base of Humphrey's Head.

Interesting route for "up and coming" trad leaders.

P1: Climb up and right to a couple of small, left-facing corners. Use the face and inside corners to continue moving up and right, passing a pine tree after the real difficulties.  At this point you basically need to traverse pretty directly right and aim for the large ledge at the base of the south end of the Cockscomb. The route finishes up near the P1 belay for Old Ladies Route.

A good alternative is to break the route into two pitches, stopping at a comfortable ledge with a smaller birch tree and vertical cracks in the blocks for gear. On P2, either step back down and right to continue on Up and Coming or work up and left and climb to the top of Humphrey's Head to rap off Humphrey's Head to Luncheon Ledge.

P1: Climb straight up between A Christian Delight and Up And Coming to a pine tree growing out of a steep wall just below a short, left-facing corner, about 25 up from the start. Climb up on the left side of the tree and straight up to a large ledge. Step right and climb up to another ledge. (5.5)

P2: Step right to a sloping, right-facing corner and climb up and slightly left to the base of Humphrey's Head. Go straight up Humphrey's to a crack with some old pins. Pull the top directly. (5.7-)

(5.8 Var: At the start of P2 you can climb a thin finger crack on the face instead of the sloping, right-facing corner.)

Climb up the face to a right-leaning crack and your first pro.  Move up to the overhang and spend some time getting good gear.  Now the fun begins.  Pull the small overhang and move up the somewhat slabby face to the first bolt.  Continue up on small, sharp, but positive crimps and edges to the 2nd bolt.  Move up left (staying left seemed harder but there's a pro placement there) on very small edges and then trend back right.  Once you find a hold about 2 finger-pads wide you're nearly there.

This route is very sustained once past the overhang. Big fall potential if you miss the pro placement after the 2nd bolt.  That said, the moves are beautiful and the crimps/edges are very positive.  5.10a is probably conservative...it's just 5.10-hard.

From the block above the Lower Broadway Chimney, locate the 'clean' area of rock.  Climb up past a few small left-facing flakes and some gear placements (small cams).  Continue up, following the cleaner rock and finding gear wherever you can.

About 3/4 of the way through the route you'll be just below a large bulging blocky section that's covered with lichen above.  The original route went left here to end at the belay ledge at the end of Old Lady's P1.  The better link-up is to move right, passing a large horizontal crack (#3 or 4 cam) and then joining Old Lady's P2 about midway through.

Traverse the rest of Old Lady's, set some gear on long slings, and make a belay at the trees at the end of Old Lady's P2.

From here you can finish Old Lady's or follow the crack system straight above you, which is Windy Corner (5.4), to the Summit Ledge.

Description

Protection

Routes in Lower Broadway