Climb the short 5.7 crack 10 feet to the ledge. Follow the 5.6 dihedral all the way until the crack ends. Don't climb on the dangerous loose choss to the right of the dihedral. Fun route, just a little dirty.

Fists Hands Fingers and Jams

Malaria

Tattoo

The Bolt Route

Bovine Blowout

Malarial Caress

Chomping the Bit

Sea of Cheez

Malarious

Bovine Direct

Subtle Caress

Climb the first 3 bolts of Bovine Direct, the farthest route right on the Overhang.  Then continue up and left past another bolt.  Either clip the last bolt on Sea of Cheez and continue to its anchors or head back right to the anchors on Bovine Direct.

Easier face climbing takes you up to the sequential and interesting crux section.  The anchors are under the large roof.

For historical completeness, this was the first route done without bolts or top rope on the overhang. It goes directly through the stacked blocks in the center of the overhang. The crux is being able to stand on the blocks then moving up to the left side of the small cave above. A knee bar in the cave gives a great rest before the final moves. On the topo it is between routes 5 and 6.   I understand this route has now been bolted so I changed it to a sport route  (I haven't personally been back to see).    When I soloed it, there were no bolts anywhere on cliff drive.   Times have changed as has the slickness of the rock I hear.

Start on the crimp and pull into the pocket.  Note the foot under the roof for the next moves.  Continue up and left to the 2nd bolt, then back right and up after the 3rd bolt.  Shares anchors with Subtle Caress on the right. 

  You can climb up and right past the first anchors for more 12a climbing.  One more bolt over the roof and a second set of anchors.

A nice linkup with delicate thin moves, some call it the Cataluna of Kansas City.

 Linkup:  First two bolts of Subtle Caress, 3rd bolt of The Bolt Route, 4th bolt to end of Malaria

Start right of the crack and head up on face holds to the arete/dihedral.A little chossy left around the corner after the 3rd bolt.Would probably be a 5.9 with higher stars if the anchor wasn't shit.

Fun overhanging face climb with a very high first bolt.  It's easy to the bolt, though.  After clipping the third draw, begin heading up and right to turn the roof for the finish.  The clipping holds can be muddy if it has been raining recently.  If not, they are typically covered in a slick film of dirt.

After clipping the anchor(s) of "Chomping the Bit" go up and right onto sharp holds past one bolt up to the anchors of Malaria. 

  A kneebar is possible once you step onto the final jug of chomping the bit. Go past one bolt followed by crimpers then continue to the anchors. Choose one of two final holds, one directly below the anchor which requires an awkward body position to clip on, or go up and left of the anchors onto a jug. 

  The route was added in winter of 2012-13 by adding a single bolt between the anchors of Chomping the Bit and Malaria. Best use of a single bolt ever.

Easier face climbing leads to small crimp undercling to pull the roof.  Then angle up and left to the anchors on easier holds.

Meanders a little.  Sustained climbing through roof midway up, then up and left to share anchors with the Bolt Route.  Big moves.

This is the area capped by a very apparent roof system.  This contains some overhung bolted routes.  Some can be accessed from the top by rapping in to the anchors and stringing another rope for TR.  It also has the best rock at Cliff Drive. 

  Most of the routes here are sequential and may feel harder than the grade suggests. 

  These routes are starting to get fixed chain draws installed.  Please do not attempt to take them, as they are intended for the the use of the climbing community.  The same goes for the fixed biners at the anchors. 

  As of spring 2014, most everything at Cliff Drive has been re-bolted and there are now very few fixed draws in the area. 

  Descriptions   Hardest Single Move: The Bolt Route or Bovine Direct, depending on height   Most Sustained Overall: Subtle Caress   Most Sustained Crux Sequence: Malaria   Biggest Moves: Subtle Caress   Slopiest: Malaria

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in The Overhang