Sit start at the back of the cave. head up and right towards the start of 'Swinger.' Starts on one of the most giant jugs you have ever seen. Head right into left facing jug feature and reach around. This is the start of the crux. Make three (or four) VERY hard moves to gain the start of 'Swinger.' Top-out.

There is a large amount of advanced trickery involved with this problem due to the lack of feet. Very cool and different for the area.

Mega Project

Stone On Bone

Alligator Blood

Open Project

Stoner Traverse

Rasta

Project

The Fire

Aquarius

Crack

Hey Mami

Entrance Pillar/Creek

Graffiti Wall

Aqua Velva

Swinger

The Tufa

Stoned

Sunspots

Sit start at the base of the cave.  Climb up the leaning block and top-out on the graffiti wall.

Stand start with huge left hand side jug and right crimper. Huge right hand throw to lip on arete. Toe hook the jug, bump left hand to crimp then bump to angled big rail. Throw right hand to sloper edge stick it hang and drop finish!

Topouts go left or right for future first ascents!

Start on left facing flake down and left of the 'Stoner Traverse' start.  Head left and follow the sloper lip to the finish jug of 'Aquarius.'  Drop or top-out if the moss has dried (which is rare.)

Start as for 'Aqua Velva' and make a big move to gain flat hold and right hand arete.  Work the arete until you can throw to a flat hold up and left.  Drop off.

Good L-R traverse on pockets and jugs.  There are multiple eliminates and variations on the line but the easiest way clocks in somewhere around V5/6...on the harder side if you are short.

One particularly cool eliminate uses only the mono pockets after the initial move to the matching pocket.  Quite hard and decent finger training.

Outside of the cave to the right.  Start on head-high holds-Left hand pocket/right hand crimp.  Traverse right on pockets and end somewhere around the jugs on the right side of the wall.  You'll know when it's over.

Start on 'Swinger' and finish up 'Aquarius'

Head up the highball bulge between the cave and the 'Stoner Traverse.'  Start on 1/2 pad edge and head up on a few edges to huge slot.  Topout?  Drop?  Who knows.  Very difficult.

Sit start back underneath the start of 'Aqua Velva' and 'Aquarius'.  Start on 3 foot long jug with a good right foot.  Head up on slopers and finish on 'The Tufa.'  Very difficult compression moves lead to a jug haul.

Same start as AquaVelva but head out of the cave on crimps. End on head high jug just outside of cave.

Kind of an eliminate but still cool.  Start on large undercling underneath 'Stoner Traverse' start.  Throw out right to the large foothold on 'Stoner Traverse' and finish on stoner traverse.

Variations include:

Same start but finish on mono eliminate finish.  Hard.  V9+!

Dyno (for most folks) into 'Stoner Traverse' start.  V7.

Various problems on the pillar to your right as you enter the cave and in the creek just outside of the cave.  There are a couple of V3 traverses on this pillar that some folks enjoy and a neat campus problem just up the creek.  A few more meters up the creek is a large boulder covered in moss.  There are a number of slab practices on this boulder when the moss is dried out.

Various problems from V0- to V2 along the short painted wall in the cave.  The best use of this wall is as a foot hold for 'The Tufa.'  Graffiti and cover paint has pretty much ruined what was once a neat little warm up wall with some unusual (for the area) crimps.

Sit start on a good left hand two finger pocket and poor right hand pocket near the mouth of the cave and head up left on jugs to "The Tufa"

Stand start on sloper feature in the middle of cave.  Make one big move right to a giant jug and topout on "The Tufa"

Stand start on obvious overhead jugs, pull to pocket and topout through cave opening to your left.  One move and the only route out of the cave.

start on a good pocket just right of the normal start and below the center of the stoner traverse and move up and into the end of it to finish same as "sunspots".

the end of the stoner traverse to a step off finish in a jug/crack

Description

Protection

Routes in Stoner Cave