This page describes a distinct route, but also includes beta involving pitches from other routes to get you to the summit. It is a truly wonderful 5.9 linkup to the summit! Probably the most fun way to summit if you are comfortable at the grade.

Damaged Goods:

Pitch 1 (60', 5.9):

Climb a single finger crack splitting a clean face, up onto a sloping ledge, and then into a set of double thin/finger cracks directly above. Gear belay.

Pitch 2 (30', 5.4):

Essentially just moving the belay up to the base of P2 of Power Pusher. Step up climbers left onto the ramp, and walk up to the next corner. Gear belay.

Pitch 2a (30', 5.9):

From the top of P1, get up onto the ramp lookers left, and almost immediately start into the thin hands/hand crack that veers back to your right. Pitch name: Off Track (FA Dwight Bishop, 1987).

Pitch 2b (20', 5.10d R):

Climb the right facing dihedral directly above P1 with basically no gear. Looks scary. (FA: Dwight Bishop, 1987).

Additional beta to summit:

Pitch 3 (25', 5.9):

P2 of Power Pusher. Absolutely stellar hand crack in the right facing dihedral. Gear belay.

Pitch 4 (50', 5.8+):

P3 of Proboscis. Wide flaring hand crack. Belay after it levels out, and then just walk to the chains. It is a safe, pleasant stroll along the top. P3 and 4 easily linked. Gear belay.

Descent:

Use the main rappel station way back on the North end of the formation. 70m rope makes it down in one go, otherwise use the midway station for shorter ropes.

Damaged Goods

Adrenaline Pumper

Owl Dihedral

Overpowering

Power Pusher

The Ramp

Bishops Surprise

Proboscis

Slipperman

Suck It Up, Cupcake

A nice climb on great rock.  Power Pusher is a 2 pitch climb to reach the ridge.

Pitch 1 - 5.7

Follow a left facing corner up about 50 feet.  Then traverse right into a right facing corner and go up. Belay from a big sloping ledge below a right facing corner crack.

Pitch 2 - 5.9

Jam up a stellar hand and fist crack to the ridge line.  You should reach the ridge right at the belay between pitches 2 and 3 of Proboscis

(note: no belay bolts

).

Technically this is the end of the route, however there is no way to rap down from here.  So climb the 3rd pitch of Proboscis.  Or you could (although I don't recommend it because of being dirty) walk around on ledges to the east side and climb Evening Stroll 5.8.

To descend there are bolts to rappel from at the top of Owl Dihedral. Don't miss the 2nd set of bolts in the middle of the face between pitches 1 and 2 of Owl Dihedral if you only have a single 60m rope.

Carefully start up the left slanting thin seam, pass three bolts, and finish up a large step. A somewhat bold lead down low. Crux near last bolt.

Descent:

Rappel route.

Owl Dihedral runs up a prominent dihedral on the left end of Dragons Back's west face.  It is normally done in 2 pitches, however you could combine them for 1 long pitch.

Pitch 1 - 5.8

Follow a large dihedral up to a tree on a ledge about halfway up.

Pitch 2 - 5.8

Continue following the crack system up the face to the top.

To descend there are bolts to rappel from at the top of Owl Dihedral. Don't miss the 2nd set of bolts in the middle of the face between pitches 1 and 2 of Owl Dihedral if you only have a single 60m rope.

Steep, airy climbing. Being tall really helps on this one. Shorter climbers, this will feel more like 11a. A few easy moves gets you to the first bolt, and from here the difficulties increase with each move. Crux is right around the 3rd bolt. Getting there isn't so bad; hanging on to clip is. After clipping the last bolt, easily traverse left and over the top of the flake to the chains. Or build a gear anchor in a good crack directly over the route to TR.

Descent:

Rappel from chains to the left. 70m rope makes it down in one go. Midway chains for shorter ropes.

A fun, easy romp to get you to the top. Start up 4th/5.easy terrain towards a large bush. There will be a two bolt anchor on your left. Head right around the large bush and to the right slanting ramp. Belay in a large, cozy nook 10' below the summit, or fight some probably heinous rope drag and angle back left to the actual summit. Can easily be climbed in approach shoes.

Descent:

Rappel from chains to the north. 70m gets you down in one. Otherwise, use midway chains.

A truly surprising, varied, and fun route! Start by climbing up the crack in the big chimney, or just lean back and chimney up until you gain a sloping stance. Wrestle past a tree, moving slightly right of the splitter finger crack to a good stance. Plug some gear, and fire up the thin crack supplemented with cool face holds. Make a hand traverse right, and gain a good ledge. From here, the climbing eases. Move up and left, then back to the right over good flakes and ledges. One more exciting and airy move right gains a left ascending ramp under a large tree. Go up this ramp, left of the tree, and belay on the top of the formation at a great belay spot.

Descent:

Walk about 20' right along the top of the formation. Rappel from chains (70m makes it down in one go, midway rap station for shorter ropes). Don't fall into the large gap behind the big flake as you step over to the chains :)

Proboscis is a nice moderate and a great way to reach the top of the Dragon's Back.

Pitch 1 - 5.7

Start on the southwest side of dragon back and follow easy cracks up a dihedral to the ridge line and a ledge with large tree.

Pitch 2 - 5.8

Climb up blocks and then follow a nice hand crack up the ridge.  Belay at the base of a 15 ft wall with a flaring crack.

Pitch 3 - 5.8+

Climb the flaring crack up the wall and then continue to follow the ridge line to the very top.

To descend there are bolts to rappel from at the top of Owl Dihedral.  Don't miss the 2nd set of bolts in the middle of the face between pitches 1 and 2 of Owl Dihedral if you only have a single 60m rope.

Fun, technical face climbing! Crux is near the last bolt.

Descent:

Rappel route.

A much better bolted route than its lower brethren. Step right and make a few airy moves to the first bolt. Cross left over the bolt line and finish straight up to the chains. Stepping over the massive gap behind the flake is easier going up than on rappel.

Descent:

Rappel route. 70m makes it down in one, otherwise use the midway chains.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Dragon's Back