Pitch One: The technical crux of this pitch is the bolt protected face at the start. The crack above serves up a second crux at it's top. This pitch ends at a bolted anchor on a stance. 5.11c.

Pitch Two: Begin by moving left and up to a second very thin crack. While not as steep or hard as the lower pitch, this section is tricky and the protection is very thin wires. The pitch ends on ledges just below the top of the cliff. 5.10d.

Descent

We rapped off from the top of pitch two, which ends just below a short scrambleto the top, leaving some nuts as an anchor. There is a rappel route down the north face, but we found out the hard way that 50M ropes come up short getting to the mid-face anchor on vertical rock.

From Afar

Prow of Cobra

As the name says, this route climbs the prow of the Cobra. The 5.9 bits are well protected and some easier sections are runout. 7 or 8 pitches lead to 4th class climbing to the top out. The route goes between the left and right facing arches visible from the base. Some of the belays have one bolt, some two, and one is a fixed pin.

This is a fantastic climb! If you do one moderate in the GOD this is the one.

Descent:

50 feet down the ridge from the summit cairn, find a single fixed piton on the north side. From here a short downclimb leads to a ledge on your right. Find the large chock-stone with old webbing around it. A series of raps with two 60M ropes get you down. Rumor has it that it can be done with a 70, with sections of exposed down-climbing. Bring plenty of webbing, and perhaps a few leaver ‘biners for the raps. This is not someplace you want to cheap out and get your ropes jammed.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Cobra Turret