This is one of Cape Ann's best crack climbs! With a awesome layback on overhanging red granite, make your way up to the top. The crux is where the crack runs out. Make a big reach for the top and mantle.

Dangles Crack

Blind Faith

Kimchi

Stepping Stone

This is an awesome, little, balancy line. Start on the flake, and move up and along until it runs out. Reach out for the first hold to the left, then lay your right foot out to the right to balance out. Hold the form for the next two moves to top out.

Scramble up the ramp to the moderate slab. mantle up on the large jug. Clip the bolt and move up on thin features until they run out, then throw your left in blind faith for the top.

Stand start with a high left hand on a good edge. You may need a stepping stone (or 2x pads) if you are not lanky. Traverse a bit right on the good edge, and move up into the mini-dihedral/arete. A few more steady moves to a high topout.There is great stone on this one - impeccable white and red granite.It is likely a relic from times past. Generic name since before pads, I’m sure a stepping stone was used to reach the start hold. Or maybe a jump start....

This crag makes it offical, that the Redrocks conservation area contains a little bit of everything. This beautiful wall is about 200+ feet long; only about 15 to 30 feet high, most of the wall is overhanging with some amazing lines. There are a handful of very low grade tradable lines, but most of the lines are in the 5.10 and up region. 

  This crag faces south to Route 128 and will be dry by mid-day if the sun is out after a rain. This is also the only south-facing crag in the Redrocks area.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Sunshine Wall