One of the best moderates at Gilman, this route ascends a blunt, low-angled arete on fine stone.  Begin with an easy scramble up somewhat chossy ledges before heading left onto the arete.  At midheight the boltline tries to force the route up the right side of the buttress, but the climbing is easiest up the slab on the left.

Roadside Distraction

Racial Tension

This technical line ascends the wide black streak right of Roadside Distraction.  This route is a waterfall when it rains, so keep that in mind.  The route begins with an easy scramble up chossy ledges, before rearing up to near vertical.  Long reaches between good crimps ascend the mossy wall to a crux near the top.  Fortunately virtually all of the key holds have been scrubbed free of moss, so the route is not as mossy as it appears.

100 yards before (S) the first tunnel is a diminutive crag on the left (W) side of the road that features two short but high quality moderates.  The Crag gets morning sun, and afternoon shade.  This crag gets shade earlier than most of the other left-side routes, so is a good option once The Broken Arrows start to get sunny and hot.  This cliff is right on the road, so expect a large number of near-proximity gawkers.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in First Tunnel