P1.Easy slab to below right facing corner. 5.4 180ft

P2.Up the corner and slab to belay. 5.4 200ft

P3.4th class up slab to below summit block.

P4.Awkward move on leftside of block to top. 5.8 20ft.

Lilli's Leap

The Arrowhead

Trespasser Groove

Troglodytes Day Out

Easter Prohibition

Rilke's Climb

Shade Runner

A moderate climb on good rock, only the first pitch has one or two thin moves protected by bolts. An excellent introduction to the longer climbs on the Reef. Starts in the  corner about 30' left of the Arrowhead route.

P1). Up the corner passed 3 bolts to double anchors.170'5.8R

P2).Straight up... nice climbing 150'5.4R

P3)Continue up the corner to double anchors,avoid some loose blocks to the right. 200'5.5R.

P4)Continue up the corner to double anchors.200'5.5R.

P5).A short piece of slab to a ledge (The Rap anchors of Arrowhead can be seen a few feet down to the right)continue straight up to the summit and Register in Cairn. 150'5.6R.

Descent. Scramble to the left from summit and traverse to the Rap Anchors of Arrowhead.Rap down Arrowhead or Shade Runner.The anchors on Shade Runner will need Rap slings.

From the I.70 entrance drive 1.8 miles to pull off. Follow the Wash that crosses the road a few yards past the pull off. after about 1/4 mile walk right and enter the slot canyon on its left. Go up the canyon to a cairn below the slab on the left of the canyon. A nice introduction to the slabs on good rock.

P1)Excellent climbing past 3 bolts .From the third bolt move right to the dark brown rock to reach good ledge with small bushes . Bolt anchors 170' 5.8+R..

P2) Climb short slab into a groove on the right. Then back left to another open groove to bolt belay at its top. 200' 5.4R

P3) Climb up the slabs very slightly left to small ledge and bolt anchors. 200' 5.4R..

P4)Do not enter easy looking groove on the left as it leads to poor rock.Climb straight up to shallow ramp directly above the belay and follow towards the summit. 200'5.7R..

P5)A short pitch climbs the left side of the fine summit and register. 5.5....

Descend with 4 long rappels. From the summit one can scramble down left and traverse to the anchors at the top of pitch 4...

Scramble up a low angle slab for about 300' until below the obvious groove.

P1)Climb the groove/slab passed 2 bolts to the left and up to double anchors. 100' 5.8R.

P2).4th class flat slab moving down left to reach start of an open slab below a thin black dyke line.

P3).Climb the slab not much pro for 170' ,to reach double anchors above a large pothole.200' 5.6R

P4). Up a short corner on the right 5.6 to reach the 4th class slab of Lilli's Leap ,follow this for about 300' to the summit blocks.

P5).A couple of committing moves to reach the summit and lower off bolt 20' 5.8. (Same finish as Lilli's Leap.)

One can 4th class down the slabs of Lilli's Leap keeping to the south side to reach the ground.

A climb of unique character to say the least,if you want adventure this is it!.Difficult to grade on the FA ,the leader having to get through the slot moves with a heavy drill strapped to his back.Scramble up the slot until it steepens.

P1)Stem and chimney passing a bolt at about 80' that was used to protect the second on one of the steep sections.Continue to a belay bolt plus small cam back up. 200'5.7.

P2)An ascending traverse is made up the left wall of the slot . when the second bolt is reached with a fixed biner lower off back down into the bottom of the slot about 50' .Continue with less difficulty up the slot to natural block belay. The second had to climb to the first bolt so the leader could reach the belay ledge. 240'5.8.

P3)One is now out thankfully out of the slot.Ascend the slab on the left (south) side, trending slightly right heading for a mini arch on the skyline. Climb passed three bolts at the third tension off into the open groove to the right and across to double achors.200'5.8.

P4).Follow the corner that has some natural pro ,step right to a pro bolt and after a couple of thin moves climb past mini arch to double anchors on the crest of the ridge.150'5.9-. About 60'a long the ridge to the right is a cairn with register.

Descent. Head down (east) the ridge of the route Rilke's Climb to first double ancors for a single 100' low angle rap to double anchors .from here  two more 60m raps to easy scramble down groove to the right (south).

The climb was named to commemorate the first time we had forgotten the after climb beer !!The climb is slow to start but is worthwhile for the final pitch that has all the challenges of a classic Eastern Reef climb.

P1)Start up the blunt low angle ridge and continue up the very easy open groove to double anchors. 200' 5.0

P2)Continue up the right trending open groove good thread belay on the right side. 200'5.1

P3)The climb gets a little more difficult  following the groove with odd cam placement and one pro bolt to double anchors below a vertical wall.180 5.7.

P4). An easy traverse right to double anchors.60' 5.4 (ignore sling and bolt up and over to the right this is on third pitch of Troglodytes)

P5)Sustained difficulty .Odd sections of the rock needs gentle care. Climb up steep rock just left of the belay and continue trending slightly up right passed 5/6 bolts and a couple of cam placements to double anchors on the summit ridge.170' 5.9R Register in a cairn about 80' up the easy ridge to the right .

Descent . Follow ridge down  left to double anchors .First rap is 100' then two more 60m raps from double anchors to easy scramble down gully over to the right.

The climb was named after Eric Bjornstad dog who died a few days earlier. Climbs the buttress just right of the slot canyon entrance that leads to Death by Chocolate.The route takes a line of cracks and grooves. Scramble up an open bush filled groove until it becomes steep.

P1). Climb the grove to a large block. 60' 5.4.

P2).Directly right of the block climb the steep small wall until difficulties ease then continue to double anchors 130' 5.7R.

P3). Cracks and grooves to double anchors . 200' 5.8.

P4). Climb up to a ledge passed a short steep section to anchor.50' 5.5.P5+) From here 4th class up easy slabs to summit register in cairn.

Descent :-Rap the route

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in D Crags