This is supposedly the classic line on the formation. Good orange rock, far from the crowds, and a nice little obscure summit. Really only one good pitch, though, with lots of rambling terrain above and below it.

P1) 5.5 ish, following cracks and weaknesses up and left. Belay on a ledge. 110'

P2) 5.8 OW straight up to a ledge at the base of the main corner. 5" cam would be useful. Alternatively, there is a 5.9+ left-leaning crack you can take which leads back right to the same ledge. 90'

P3) Beautiful left-facing dihedral. Jams for days. Belay atop the pillar (100') or run out the rope and belay somewhere above.

P4) Easy 5th to the summit. We soloed

Scramble over the top and down to a rap anchor on a large block. Bring a good length of webbing/cord to replace whats there. 30M down the ramp, which could also be downclimbed at mid-5th. A second rap station (fixed stopper) exists on skiers right near the bottom of the gully.

Description

Protection

Routes in Billy's Pillar