Lower crack takes stoppers and small cams. Upper crack takes larger cams... 3 or 4 BD. Upper moves are strenuous and tape might be a good idea.

Hombres Sin Nombres

Alas del Loro Hosco y Gordo

Amigos con Carne

"Wings of the surly fat parrot" !! Thanks to Kemper and Joe N for naming ideas. Kind of like "Wings of Steel". But different.

 Use your wings to do some arete hugging. Stinger crux at the end.

Grainy rock at bottom leads to a slab with good edges (some are suspect looking, but good). Higher up it gets steeper with cool solid holds.  Very techy, gives you something to think about all the way.

 2.5 star movement, 2 star looks.

A little pinnacle with a technical-means-only summit.

 I love it when i find evidence of previous climbers.  Sometimes I know or can guess who it was and roughly when.  Sometimes it's a complete mystery. 1/4 inch bolts on top of Mystery Pinnacle at the Outback.  Old piton in the canyon west of Sunspots.  Rupley ?  Thompson ?

 I assumed I would be the first person on top of the Chili Bean (and first on top of K12)… wrong-o !!  On Chili Bean I found some oppo-ed stoppers with a carabiner... a rap anchor.  Who and when ?  Don't know.  Nothing in any guide book... and I have them all.

 Has a short SE side and a much taller NW side.

 The blunt east arete has a midway bolt and an anchor with leaver biners. With these and a stickclip, it is possible to TR the arete. I was hoping for a 5.8 warmup there. But it's 5.11. So I aborted the line rather than create a zero star, 20 foot 5.11.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Chili Bean