A common first outdoor climb or cool-down solo, Stage Fright ascends the juggy/ledgy arete to the right of Desperado. Very easy climbing down low leads to more reachy moves up high, and a 'crux' just before the top.

Stage Fright

Left Crack Corner

The Bulge

Big Al

Desperado

Desperado variation

Desperado moves up the namesake face between The Bulge and Stage Fright. Easy climbing on big, flat holds at the bottom leads to a couple of more difficult moves on pinches and crimps to gain the top. There are several variations, but the true route stays off the right arete and ledge system but left of the quartz dike.

Begin with thin holds, but you can lieback the crack with the opposing wall. Continue up the arete, and then traverse to the face. Be careful of a pendulum swing as you must use the anchors for The Bulge to toprope this one.

The Bulge climbs delicately over a small rounded portion of the Desperado face using a quartz dike. Full of balancy moves and strange holds, the route may seem a bit stiff if you are unused to Den Rock's confusing, crappy rock. Start by making a few reachy moves on crimps to gain the dike. Then, pinching crystals and sidepulling awkward crimps, step up to gain the steeper but easier upper section.

The route begins at the left end of Desperado Wall. Begin with thin holds and some small knobs on the face.  Lieback the crack with the opposing wall, then continue up the arete.  Be careful of a potential pendulum swing as you near the top.

Just go more or less straight to the anchor, staying away from easier terrain to the right, and meet the dike at the ledge.

This is a 25-30 foot crag which faces east.  There were a couple anchors with chains above. 

  L->R:   A. Big Al, 9+, 1p, 30', gear or TR.   B. Left Crack Corner, 9+, 1p, 30', gear or TR.    C1. The Bulge, 7+, 1p, TR.   C2. variation, 7, 1p, TR.   DE. Desperado, 6, 1p, TR.   E. Stage Fright, 5, 1p, TR.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Desperado